Whether poinsettia is growing indoors or outdoors, they prefer a loose, well-draining potting mix. Consider using Miracle-Gro® Moisture Control® Potting Mix. You can also add Perlite and Peat Moss to your soil for some added nutrients.

As your poinsettia grows, so does its roots. To avoid your poinsettia getting root-bound, repot it in the spring. It’s generally recommended that by mid-May, your poinsettia will be ready to repot. Choose a pot that is about 2 inches wider and deeper than its current pot. And of course, refresh the soil when you repot.

The most common way to propagate poinsettia is by taking a cutting. Propagating from cuttings ensures a clone of the parent plant. No surprises! To start, wait until the spring to take your cutting. Using sharp scissors or pruners, cut a 3 – 4 inch stem from the parent plant. Then cut off a few of the lower leaves to promote root growth from the cut edge. Be sure to leave at least 3 leaves at the top of the cutting. Transplant your cutting to a small container with well-draining potting mix such as using Miracle-Gro® Seed Starting Potting Mix. Keep your cutting in a bright, humid area, and mist the leaves regularly to stimulate growth.

Whiteflies are the most common pests for poinsettias. Do regular checks under the leaves of your poinsettia and keep an eye out for clumps of greenish eggs. Use a gentle insecticide like Ortho® Bug B Gon® ECO Insecticide Ready-to-Use to easily and quickly get rid of white flies.

Bacterial rot. This causes the base or stem of the cuttings to become mushy and eventually collapse. You may also notice a smell surrounding your plant, which is also caused by this bacterial infection. You may be able to mitigate this by proper watering and misting practices. It’s best to cut off misting and watering for a while once you notice the stems are a little soft.

Temperature fluctuations. Sudden temperature fluctuations will shock these tropical plants. To keep your poinsettia happy, make sure it’s in a bright space that can also receive a few hours of shade or darkness. Be sure to keep your plant away from radiators, fireplaces and space heaters too.

Could be spider mites. These little pests feed off the plant’s sap, causing the leaves to turn pale and sometimes develop little red spots. If you catch spider mites early enough, you may be able to salvage your plant. Use a gentle insecticide like Ortho® Bug B Gon® ECO Insecticide Ready-to-Use to gently take care of this problem. A recovering poinsettia will perk up and brighten up within a week or two.

Over- or underwatering. Both over and under-watering your poinsettia will cause its leaves to droop or look wilted. If you’re over-watering your plant, be sure to let its soil dry out a bit. Discard any excess water at the bottom of its pot to prevent it from sitting water and developing root rot. If you’re underwatering, consider boosting your watering routine with Miracle-Gro Indoor Plant Food for the next two watering cycles. You can also start misting the leaves of your poinsettia to increase its water in-take. But don’t overdo it, let the soil dry out a bit between watering.

Amaryllis needs to be planted in a light, well draining potting soil. Consider using Miracle-Gro® Indoor Potting Mix. The combination of coconut coir and perlite help control moisture and release water when your plant needs it. If you’re growing a single amaryllis bulb, you can plant it in a 6-inch pot. If you’re growing multiple bulbs (about 2 –3) use a bigger pot, closer to 10 – 12inches. As always, make sure your pot has a drain hole and be sure to leave the top 1/3 of your amaryllis bulb sticking out of the soil.

Your amaryllis won’t need to be repotted very often. In most cases, you will only need to repot your amaryllis after 3 – 4 years. It’s best to repot once your amaryllis has gone through a dormant stage, typically this means repotting in the spring.

There are 3 ways to propagate amaryllis:

1. Through Seeds. Look for seed pods about four weeks after your amaryllis begins to flower. When the seeds are ready, they’ll split open a bit and turn yellow. Then you can gently shake out the little black seeds.
2. Separating bulbs/offsets. Look for firm bulblet that are about a third of the size of the “mother” bulb. Trim back any extra foliage to 2 inches above the bulb. Gently remove the bulblets and replant as soon as possible. You can remove the bulblets with either a small knife or just your fingers.
3. Choose a bulb at least 6 inches in diameter. Cut into four pieces, vertically, making sure each section has at least two scales. Plant with the basal plate (bottom) of the bulb pointing down, covering only a third of the bulb with soil.

Keep an eye out for common pests like mealybugs and fungus gnats. If you spot these pesky bugs, you can use a gentle insecticide like Ortho® Bug B Gon® ECO Insecticidal Soap to get rid of them without damaging your plant.

There could be a few reasons. The main reason could be that your amaryllis isn’t getting enough light. Once you’ve moved your plant to a bright window that gets light for about 4 hours a day, you should see blooms. Still nothing? Try adding a little plant food to bump up the nutrients. Consider using a tropical plant food like Miracle-Gro® Tropical Plant Food.

Over or underwatering. The issue could also be that your amaryllis isn’t getting enough light. If you know that your watering schedule is okay, then try moving your plant to a more direct light source.

Look for colour and texture. If your bulb has a uniform colour and firm texture, it’s a healthy bulb. If you spot signs of a pest infestation, mold or any damage to the actual bulb, these are red flags that indicate your bulb will likely rot. Seeing shriveled or brown skin on the outside? That’s totally normal.

Plant garlic cloves 4 to 8 inches apart, and about 2 inches deep. Be sure you plant the cloves with the root side pointing down. Your garlic needs well-draining soil, such as Miracle-Gro® All Purpose Garden Soil. Add a little compost to bump up the nutrients of soil.

Garlic can be planted next to other veggies such as beets, celery, lettuce, potatoes, strawberries or even tomatoes. It’s best to avoid planting near peas or beans.

Once your garlic has sprouted some leaves, and a few of the lower leaves have turned brown, your garlic is ready to pick. The only way to tell is to pick a few bulbs as a test. If the cloves have filled the skin, they’re ready to harvest. Be sure not to let them wait too long once you notice the lower leaves browning, otherwise the protective layers around the cloves will be too thin. This means the garlic won’t store well.

White rot is a common disease that can wipe out an entire garlic crop. This is identified by little poppy seed sized bumps on the stem, and white fuzzy growth on the bottom of the bulb. If left untreated it can remain in the soil for many years. Keep an eye out for symptoms from mid-summer to autumn. If you’re noticing this has been a problem where you’re planting, apply a fungicide. For best results, apply the fungicide in a 6 inch band over the planting trench. This should happen immediately before planting.

Could be time to harvest. When garlic is ready to be harvested, a few of the bottom leaves will turn brown and droop. The easiest way to tell if your garlic is ready to harvest is to count back. Garlic needs about 240 days to mature.

Nutrient problems. Your soil could be lacking in some key nutrients like nitrogen, potassium, calcium, and magnesium. Consider using a plant food like, Miracle-Gro® Shake ‘N Feed® Tomato, Fruits & Vegetables Plant Food.

Extreme weather conditions. Sometimes after a particularly harsh winter, garlic crops can come out a bit crumpled or very small. One way to prevent this is to water and mulch immediately after planting. Be sure not to add too much mulch though! Too much mulch applied too late in the season will insulate the ground and delay it from going dormant. This can cause root rot once the real cold weather sets in.

Kale works well when planted by artichokes, beets, celery, cucumber, lettuce, onion, peas, potatoes. Avoid other brassicas being planted alongside kale. These include broccoli, kohlrabi, cauliflower, brussels sprouts, and Swiss chard.

When your kale’s leaves are about the size of your hand, it’s ready to harvest. Be sure not to pick more than a third of your plant’s leaves at a time.

What are these little white flies? They are literally Whiteflies. They drink sap and excrete a sticky ‘honeydew’ which also encourages mould. Use sticky traps or Ortho® Bug B Gon® ECO Insecticidal Soap to keep your plants healthy.

Cabbageworms. You can use companion plants to help naturally combat these pests. Quickly hand pick your kale, and don’t forget to use row covers to help keep your kale safe.

Probably black rot. This is a fungus that leave yellow v-shapes on your kale’s leaf edges. To prevent this, make sure to rotate your crops and remove debris from your garden. Don’t forget to make sure your garden has good drainage.

Could be aphids. To prevent aphids from infesting your kale plants be sure not to water the foliage. If aphids persist, you can use an insecticide like Ortho® Bug B Gon® ECO Insecticide Ready-to-Use.

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Consider elevating your elephant ear slightly by adding a layer of rocks and pebbles between the planter and its saucer. This helps increase the humidity and prevents root rot.  Use a well-draining soil for your elephant ear. Consider using Miracle-Gro Cactus, Palm & Succulent Potting Mix or Miracle-Gro Moisture Control Potting Mix for a happy plant.

The best time to repot your elephant ear is during the spring months. When repotting your elephant ear, make sure to use a well-draining soil. Consider using a soil like Miracle-Gro Cactus, Palm & Succulent Potting Mix or Miracle-Gro Moisture Control Potting Mix to help refresh the soil.

While you can’t propagate an elephant ear with a cutting, you can divide tubers of a healthy adult plant. The tubers have a texture similar to that of a potato. You can easily cut through it with a sharp knife. Plant the divided tuber immediately into your potting soil and keep it moderately wet.

Common pests for elephant ears are aphids, spidermites and mealybugs. Use a gentle insecticide like Ortho® Bug B Gon® ECO Insecticide Ready-to-Use and make sure the leaves of your plant are treated as well.

Too much sunlight or overwatering. You can cut the dying leaves close to the base of the stem. This should prevent more leaves from yellowing. Then adjust your watering schedule or move it away from direct sunlight.

Usually due to overwatering. The leaves of an elephant ear are long and heart-shaped, which naturally draws water to the tip of the leaf. If there aren’t other signs of overwatering, like soft stems or yellow leaves, you can likely hold off on watering for a few days.

It’s a sunburn. Your plant is too close to bright, direct light. Elephant ears tend to thrive in bright, indirect light. Scorched leaves won’t kill your plant, it just doesn’t look pretty.

Fungal leaf blight. If this fungus isn’t caught early, it will cause the whole leaf to collapse and travel to the rest of the plant. To prevent this, make sure you’re using high-quality, well-draining soil.

Lilies love to have their roots in cool soil, and their heads in the sun. The best soil option to keep your lilies happy is a rich, moist soil. that is also well-draining. Consider adding in just a little bit of organic compost.

You can find a wide variety of companion plants from annuals, bulbs to
other perennials. Consider using annuals such as dill, geraniums, pansies, or new guinea impatiens. Dahlias, daffodils, or irises make great companions when planting other bulbs. Perennials such as peonies, daisies and lavender are excellent companions for lilies.

Lilies only bloom once per season. You can remove, or deadhead, faded flowers to keep your plant from wasting energy making new seeds.

The most common pest issues for lilies are infestations of scarlet lily beetles. These little guys like to hang out on the underside of leaves. The easiest way to get rid of these little pests is to catch them manually by holding a bottle of warm water under the leaves you’re inspecting. The bugs will be startled and drop off into the water waiting below.

Lily disease. This is a fungal infection that creates oval-shaped dark spots on your lily’s leaves. Make sure you use clean tools before you get started. Then clear out the infected soil and debris and get rid of the infected plant. Be sure to not plant lilies in an infected spot again.

Could be overwatering, sunburn, or underwatering. If the tip of the leaf is brown and crunchy, this means the soil is likely too dry.

Likely a fungus. Many fungi (Rhizoctonia, Phytophthora, Pythium, Fusarium, and Cylindrocarpon) attack the bulb and cause the roots to rot. This will also cause the plant to wilt, and eventually die. Be sure to remove the infected plants and check all bulbs carefully before planting.

Could be the result of small bulbs or over-crowding in the soil. Planting your lily bulbs too shallow could also lead to your lily not producing big blooms. If you cut away the leaves after a lily has flowered, it may also decrease the likelihood of flowering the following year. Keep in mind, some lilies won’t flower in their first year of planting due to transplant shock.

Succulents thrive in porous, well draining potting mix. These usually have less organic matter than regular indoor potting mix. A mix like Miracle-Gro® Cactus, Palm & Succulent Potting Mix is well-draining and won’t compact. Don’t forget to feed your plants consistently during the feeding season.

Repotting a young jade plant every 2 – 3 years will encourage growth. If you want to keep your jade plant small, they enjoy being slightly rootbound and can stay in a small pot to maintain a manageable size. Always repot in the spring.

Propagating a jade plant is super easy! You can start a whole new jade from just a single leaf or cutting. Remove a leaf or stem cutting from a healthy, mature plant, making sure it’s about 2-3 inches long and has at least 2 leaf pairs. Let the cutting sit in a warm, bright place for several days to develop a little callous. Place the cutting in moist, well-draining soil, keeping it propped upright with rocks. Be sure not to water your jade cutting at this point. After a week or two roots should start to form. Gently water the soil once roots have formed, and allow soil to dry between watering.

Jade is prone to mealybugs and scale. Mealybugs may hide under the leaves of your plant. During your routine leaf cleaning, inspect the underside. Most pests can be managed by using an insecticidal soap such as Ortho® Bug B Gon® ECO Insecticidal Soap. For more tips, check out our Pest control section in Plant 101 for how to identify and deal with pests on your plant!

Overwatering. While young jade plants need thorough watering, if your jade’s leaves are squishy and dropping it’s definitely getting overwatered.

Underwatering. These are clear signs that your jade is asking for more frequent or deeper watering.

Root rot. Do a quick inspection of your plant’s root ball. A healthy root will be firm a white. If your plant’s roots are looking brown or slimy, it’s definitely root rot. To avoid this, be sure the soil is drying out completely between watering.

You’ve got scale. These insects feed on the sap in your jade’s leaves. You can quickly remedy this problem by applying Ortho® Bug B Gon® ECO Insecticidal Soap.

String of heart plants are a member of the succulent family, so they need a porous, well-draining potting mix that doesn’t retain a lot of moisture because these beauties are prone to root rot. It’s recommended to use a succulent specific potting mix, like Miracle-Gro® Cactus, Palm & Succulent Potting Mix.

String of hearts tend to be okay with staying slightly rootbound, so you don’t need to keep a strict schedule when repotting. A good rule of thumb is to repot about every 1 – 2 years. Use a pot that is a few inches bigger than its current pot and has a drainage hole.

Start by trimming your string of hearts just under a nodule. Place your cutting in moist soil and watch your new plant take root. This process will likely take about a month. Make sure the soil is kept moist during this growing period.

String of hearts are prone to root rot, so make sure your plant’s soil is drying out between watering. Other pests like aphids or mealybugs can be managed by using an insecticidal soap such as Ortho® Bug B Gon® ECO Insecticidal Soap.

Not enough light. Move your string of hearts to a place where it can sit in ample indirect, bright light.

Overwatering or root rot. Root rot is caused by overwatering. The easiest way to tell if it’s root rot or just overwatering is to give it a sniff. If your plant smells bad, it’s root rot. If it smells okay, just hold off on watering it for a little the soil dries out a bit.

Sunburn. It looks like your string of hearts is getting too much sun. These plants enjoy bright, but indirect light. Move your plant away from direct sunlight, but keep in a nice, bright room.

Underwatering. Thinning or curling leaves is a clear indicator of underwatering. Give your string of hearts a good soak and your plant should be happily re-hydrated.

Money Trees need a sandy, peat-moss based soil. Consider adding Miracle-Gro® Sphagnum Peat Moss to your plant’s soil. Don’t forget to use a pot with drainage!

Money Trees usually need to be repotted every three years. The best time to repot is during the spring time, to promote growth. While you can cut back on some root growth, be sure not to take off more than 25% of the roots.

The best way to propagate your Money Tree is through a cutting. Take your 6 inch branch cutting, with several leaf nodes, and allow to root in water. Promptly transfer to a soil mixture with peat moss.

Money Trees are very attractive to aphids and mealybugs. You can use a gentle insecticide like Ortho® Bug B Gon® ECO Insecticide Ready-to-use to prevent these creepy crawlies from returning.

Watering issues. If your Money Tree’s leaves are drooping it could be as simple as inconsistent watering. Keep a schedule and check the soil’s moisture level to understand its needs. If the leaves are yellowing, it’s likely due to overwatering. It’s time to water when the top 2 to 4 inches of soil are dry.

Sounds like root rot. This happens when a fungus has attacked your plant’s roots and is a sign that you’ve been overwatering. Root rot can be fatal if it’s not caught early. The best chance you can give your Money Tree for survival is to repot immediately, removing as much old soil as possible.

Guttation. This it totally normal! If the rest of your Money Tree looks healthy, there’s nothing to worry about. But… if you see little dark bumps on your plant, it could be a pest infestation.

Overwatering. Avoid excessive watering and finger test your plant’s soil when you’re about to water. Make sure you’re only watering when the first 2 to 4 inches of soil are dry.

Too much sunlight. Too much bright, direct sunlight can cause your Money Tree to drop leaves. Another common cause is if your Money Tree has recently moved to its new home. Dropping a few leaves as your plant adjusts to its new home is totally normal.