Wait until it’s warm to plant outdoors. Soil temps should  be around 16°C. Space larger varieties like the classic Bell 18 to 24 inches apart. They grow quite large and spread roots.  

Pepper plants grow well beside asparagus, basil, carrots, cucumbers, eggplant, endive, oregano, parsley, rosemary, squash, Swiss chard, and tomatoes. Don’t plant peppers next to beans, broccoli, cabbage cauliflower, or fennel. 

Pick your peppers when they reach full size and full colour.  Bell peppers can be picked green, but they’ll turn into sweeter red peppers if you keep them on the plant. Just saying. 

Routinely look under the leaves of your peppers. Most common pests are Aphids (clusters of tiny greenish-yellow bugs) and Spider Mites (tiny white spots and silky threads). If you see either of these little suckers, treat immediately with a gentle pesticide like Ortho® Bug B gon ECO Insecticidal Soap.  

Possibility 1: Some combination of too much nitrogen and not enough phosphorus. Put compost in the soil before planting, and add to mature plants by side dressing the roots. Or add a phosphorous-rich fertilizer like Miracle–Gro® Nature’s Care Organic Bone Meal (not Blood Meal!).

Possibility 2: Cold at night. Build a wire cage around your plants and tent them with plastic sheeting.

Possibility 3: Not pollinating. They need a breeze to spread the pollen within their flowers. You can simulate this by shaking them gently. 

Incomplete Pollination: Plant some bright, cheery flowers in your vegetable gardens to attract bees and other pollinators. Peppers can usually self-pollinate if there’s enough of a breeze. You can become the pollinator. Gently shake the plants, or even pick a couple pepper flowers and dab them into the ones still on the plant. 

Probably Cutworms. Check the soil for gray grubs about 1/2 inch (1 cm). They love to eat stems, roots, and leaves. Protect your vines with a 3 inch paper collar around the base. You can also sprinkle wood ash around the base. It helps to keep your garden weed free. 

Likely Aphids. Look for teeny-tiny oval, and yellowish– green pear-shaped insects, clustering under the leaves. They excrete a sticky waste called honeydew (far too pleasant a name) which turns into black powdery mold. Treat with insecticidal soap. 

Your peppers are cold. Plant when it’s warm, and the soil reaches 60 F (16 C). You can build a wire frame around your plants and tent them with plastic during cold nights. Consider hardier varieties better suited to your regional climate. 

Wait until it’s warm to plant outdoors. Soil temps should  be around 16°C. Space larger varieties like the classic Bell 18 to 24 inches apart. They grow quite large and spread roots.  

Pepper plants grow well beside asparagus, basil, carrots, cucumbers, eggplant, endive, oregano, parsley, rosemary, squash, Swiss chard, and tomatoes. Don’t plant peppers next to beans, broccoli, cabbage cauliflower, or fennel. 

Pick your peppers when they reach full size and full colour.  Bell peppers can be picked green, but they’ll turn into sweeter red peppers if you keep them on the plant. Just saying. 

Routinely look under the leaves of your peppers. Most common pests are Aphids (clusters of tiny greenish-yellow bugs) and Spider Mites (tiny white spots and silky threads). If you see either of these little suckers, treat immediately with a gentle pesticide like Ortho® Bug B gon ECO Insecticidal Soap.  

Possibility 1: Some combination of too much nitrogen and not enough phosphorus. Put compost in the soil before planting, and add to mature plants by side dressing the roots. Or add a phosphorous-rich fertilizer like Miracle–Gro® Nature’s Care Organic Bone Meal (not Blood Meal!).

Possibility 2: Cold at night. Build a wire cage around your plants and tent them with plastic sheeting.

Possibility 3: Not pollinating. They need a breeze to spread the pollen within their flowers. You can simulate this by shaking them gently. 

Incomplete Pollination: Plant some bright, cheery flowers in your vegetable gardens to attract bees and other pollinators. Peppers can usually self-pollinate if there’s enough of a breeze. You can become the pollinator. Gently shake the plants, or even pick a couple pepper flowers and dab them into the ones still on the plant. 

Probably Cutworms. Check the soil for gray grubs about 1/2 inch (1 cm). They love to eat stems, roots, and leaves. Protect your vines with a 3 inch paper collar around the base. You can also sprinkle wood ash around the base. It helps to keep your garden weed free. 

Likely Aphids. Look for teeny-tiny oval, and yellowish– green pear-shaped insects, clustering under the leaves. They excrete a sticky waste called honeydew (far too pleasant a name) which turns into black powdery mold. Treat with insecticidal soap. 

Your peppers are cold. Plant when it’s warm, and the soil reaches 60 F (16 C). You can build a wire frame around your plants and tent them with plastic during cold nights. Consider hardier varieties better suited to your regional climate. 

Wait until it’s warm to plant outdoors. Soil temps should  be around 16°C. Space larger varieties like the classic Bell 18 to 24 inches apart. They grow quite large and spread roots.  

Pepper plants grow well beside asparagus, basil, carrots, cucumbers, eggplant, endive, oregano, parsley, rosemary, squash, Swiss chard, and tomatoes. Don’t plant peppers next to beans, broccoli, cabbage cauliflower, or fennel. 

Pick your peppers when they reach full size and full colour.  Bell peppers can be picked green, but they’ll turn into sweeter red peppers if you keep them on the plant. Just saying. 

Routinely look under the leaves of your peppers. Most common pests are Aphids (clusters of tiny greenish-yellow bugs) and Spider Mites (tiny white spots and silky threads). If you see either of these little suckers, treat immediately with a gentle pesticide like Ortho® Bug B gon ECO Insecticidal Soap.  

Possibility 1: Some combination of too much nitrogen and not enough phosphorus. Put compost in the soil before planting, and add to mature plants by side dressing the roots. Or add a phosphorous-rich fertilizer like Miracle–Gro® Nature’s Care Organic Bone Meal (not Blood Meal!).

Possibility 2: Cold at night. Build a wire cage around your plants and tent them with plastic sheeting.

Possibility 3: Not pollinating. They need a breeze to spread the pollen within their flowers. You can simulate this by shaking them gently. 

Incomplete Pollination: Plant some bright, cheery flowers in your vegetable gardens to attract bees and other pollinators. Peppers can usually self-pollinate if there’s enough of a breeze. You can become the pollinator. Gently shake the plants, or even pick a couple pepper flowers and dab them into the ones still on the plant. 

Probably Cutworms. Check the soil for gray grubs about 1/2 inch (1 cm). They love to eat stems, roots, and leaves. Protect your vines with a 3 inch paper collar around the base. You can also sprinkle wood ash around the base. It helps to keep your garden weed free. 

Likely Aphids. Look for teeny-tiny oval, and yellowish– green pear-shaped insects, clustering under the leaves. They excrete a sticky waste called honeydew (far too pleasant a name) which turns into black powdery mold. Treat with insecticidal soap. 

Your peppers are cold. Plant when it’s warm, and the soil reaches 60 F (16 C). You can build a wire frame around your plants and tent them with plastic during cold nights. Consider hardier varieties better suited to your regional climate. 

Wait until it’s warm to plant outdoors. Soil temps should  be around 16°C. Space larger varieties like the classic Bell 18 to 24 inches apart. They grow quite large and spread roots.  

Pepper plants grow well beside asparagus, basil, carrots, cucumbers, eggplant, endive, oregano, parsley, rosemary, squash, Swiss chard, and tomatoes. Don’t plant peppers next to beans, broccoli, cabbage cauliflower, or fennel. 

Pick your peppers when they reach full size and full colour.  Bell peppers can be picked green, but they’ll turn into sweeter red peppers if you keep them on the plant. Just saying. 

Routinely look under the leaves of your peppers. Most common pests are Aphids (clusters of tiny greenish-yellow bugs) and Spider Mites (tiny white spots and silky threads). If you see either of these little suckers, treat immediately with a gentle pesticide like Ortho® Bug B gon ECO Insecticidal Soap.  

Possibility 1: Some combination of too much nitrogen and not enough phosphorus. Put compost in the soil before planting, and add to mature plants by side dressing the roots. Or add a phosphorous-rich fertilizer like Miracle–Gro® Nature’s Care Organic Bone Meal (not Blood Meal!).

Possibility 2: Cold at night. Build a wire cage around your plants and tent them with plastic sheeting.

Possibility 3: Not pollinating. They need a breeze to spread the pollen within their flowers. You can simulate this by shaking them gently. 

Incomplete Pollination: Plant some bright, cheery flowers in your vegetable gardens to attract bees and other pollinators. Peppers can usually self-pollinate if there’s enough of a breeze. You can become the pollinator. Gently shake the plants, or even pick a couple pepper flowers and dab them into the ones still on the plant. 

Probably Cutworms. Check the soil for gray grubs about 1/2 inch (1 cm). They love to eat stems, roots, and leaves. Protect your vines with a 3 inch paper collar around the base. You can also sprinkle wood ash around the base. It helps to keep your garden weed free. 

Likely Aphids. Look for teeny-tiny oval, and yellowish– green pear-shaped insects, clustering under the leaves. They excrete a sticky waste called honeydew (far too pleasant a name) which turns into black powdery mold. Treat with insecticidal soap. 

Your peppers are cold. Plant when it’s warm, and the soil reaches 60 F (16 C). You can build a wire frame around your plants and tent them with plastic during cold nights. Consider hardier varieties better suited to your regional climate. 

ZZ prefers a light, well-draining potting soil like Miracle-Gro Cactus, Palm and Succulent Potting Mix. Or, use regular potting soil and add some potting sand or perlite. Ensure the pot has good drainage and avoid standing water. Empty drainage trays if you see water collecting. 

In the right light, ZZ grows quickly. Amazingly, they actually enjoy being a little rootbound, so you don’t need to repot as often as other plants. Repot every 3 to 4 years in the Spring, especially with younger plants. Increase pot by 2 inches every time. If you want to slow down growth, do some root trimming. In later years you can replace the top couple inches of soil instead of completely repotting.

Even propagation is easy with ZZ. Dig up the thick root ball and cut it in half. You can technically propagate your ZZ via stem and leaf cuttings, but it’s so much harder than cutting the root ball that we don’t recommend it. 

Can get mealybugs and spider mites. When you’re dusting those glossy leaves, inspect the undersides. Check out our Pest control section in Plant 101 for how to identify and deal with pests on your plant! 

Overwatering. By far the most common problem with ZZ. Especially in Winter when it doesn’t need (or want) much water at all. If the plant has been sitting in water, it may have root rot. This problem is no big deal if you catch it early. First, stop watering! Let’s dry out that soil. Check your pot’s drainage. Does it have a hole that allows excess water to escape? Help things dry by poking holes in the soil. This will get oxygen to the roots. You can also put the pot (with drainage holes) in a tray that’s lined with a layer of dry soil. It acts like a sponge to draw out extra moisture. Now, let’s check for root rot. Dig down and cut out any that look affected. If things are really bad, consider repotting entirely with new soil. Moving forward, allow ZZ’s soil to dry between watering. The top couple inches should be dry to the touch. For more information check out our Plant 101 section. 

Probably stressed. ZZ is tough but not invincible. If you’ve moved it recently that may have stressed it out. Did you just bring it home from the nursery? That’s a big change. Leaf drop is most common when ZZ was in shade and suddenly put in full sun. Ease you plant to new area when you can. If you haven’t moved it recently, check for wet or totally bone-dry soil. See above for proper watering regimen. 

Sunburn. It can handle some direct sun, but long Summer exposure can burn even the mighty ZZ. Try moving your plant somewhere that’s still bright, but with indirect light.

Not enough light. ZZ survives well in low light, but it takes bright light for ZZ to thrive and grow. If you’re happy with the size, keep it shady. If you want to see ZZ’s impressive growth in action, move it somewhere with plenty of bright and mostly indirect light. Make this change gradually if you can. Increase your watering (but just a bit) to suit the increased light. 

Again, overwatering. This is stem rot, spreading up from root rot. Remove all those mushy stems or trim away anything that looks like rot. Now let’s dry the soil and check the roots. Check your pot’s drainage. Does it have a hole that allows excess water to escape? Help things dry by poking holes in the soil. This will get oxygen to the roots. You can also put the pot (with drainage holes) in a tray that’s lined with a layer of dry soil. It acts like a sponge to draw out extra moisture. Now, let’s check for root rot. Dig down and cut out any that look affected. If things are really bad, consider repotting entirely with new soil. Moving forward, allow ZZ’s soil to dry between watering. The top couple inches should be dry to the touch. For more information check out our Plant 101 section.

These desert dwellers prefer a light, well-draining potting soil like Miracle-Gro Cactus, Palm and Succulent Potting Mix. Or, use regular potting soil and add some potting sand or perlite. A layer of sand on the top will help prevent rot. Ensure the pot has good drainage and aloe should never sit in water. Empty drainage trays if you see water collecting. 

Repot every 1 to 2 years in the Spring, especially with younger plants. Increase pot diameter by 2 inches every time. Want them to stay cute and little? You can stunt the growth by root trimming. In later years you can replace the top couple inches of soil instead of completely repotting.

Making new succulent plant babies is easy. In fact many propagate on their own. You will notice little mini versions starting grow. These “pups” can be gently separated potted as a new plant. If you’re not getting pups, remove a leaf, let it dry for a couple of days and place it on some moist soil. It should sprout roots, and voila! You have an ultra mini plant. 

Succulents don’t typically suffer from pests, but they can sometimes get bugs. Gnats are most likely. Inspect those juicy little leaves regularly. Check out our Pest control section in Plant 101 for how to identify and deal with pests on your plant! 

A couple of possibilities. Maybe too much direct summer sun. Or possibly overwatering or root damage. First, moving your plant to a still-bright but less sun-blasted spot. Reduce the watering and follow our watering instructions above. If your succulent buddy still doesn’t bounce back, check for root damage.  

Almost certainly too much water. This problem is no big deal if you catch it early. First, stop watering! Let’s dry out that soil. Check your pot’s drainage. Does it have a hole that allows excess water to escape? Help things dry by poking holes in the soil. This will get oxygen to the roots. You can also put the pot (with drainage holes) in a tray that’s lined with a layer of dry soil. It acts like a sponge to draw out extra moisture. Now, let’s check for root rot. Dig down and cut out any that look affected. If things are really bad, consider repotting entirely with new soil. Moving forward, water only when the soil is totally dry and make sure you water the soil, not the leaves. Water can collect between the leaves at its base, and start to rot. A thin layer of sand on top of the soil can reduce pooling water up top. 

For more information check out our Plant 101 section. 

Not enough light and/or overwatering. If the whole plant has yellowed or gone pale, it definitely needs more light. Move your friend to a brighter spot and resist the urge to overwater. Let the top two inches of soil get dry before watering again. 

Your plant needs a drink. Underwatering a succulent is hard to do, but it does happen. Give small amounts of water for three days in a row. Make sure you do this at soil level, not poured on the leaves. This is the ONE TIME it’s okay to do a little misting. A little does a lot. Resist the urge to water all at once! Your friend will plump up in a few days. 

Not enough light. It takes a lot of bright (mostly indirect) light to get succulents growing. If you’re not noticing any growth, or the new growth looks pale, it’s time to move to brighter spot. You may need slightly more frequent watering after the move. Note, succulents grow in slow motion at the best of times, so a little patience goes a long way.

It’s a desert plant, so use a light, well-draining potting soil like Miracle-Gro Cactus, Palm and Succulent Potting Mix. Or, use regular potting soil and add some potting sand or perlite. A layer of sand on the top will help prevent rot. Ensure the pot has good drainage. Snakes should never sit in water. Empty drainage trays if you see water collecting. 

Every 2 to 3 years in the Spring, especially in the earlier years. Increase the pot size by 2 inches each repotting. In later years you can replace the top couple inches of soil instead of completely repotting. Snake growing too fast? Slow the growth by trimming the roots.  

Grab a sharp knife or scissors, find one of the healthiest leaves, and cut it off at the base of the plant.  Then cut the leaf into multiple horizontal strips (about 3 inches each). Let the ends dry for two days then put them in water to stimulate root growth. This step could take 2 to 3 weeks. When you’ve got roots, you’re ready to pot. 

Mealybugs are most common. When you do your regular dusting, inspect the leaves. Check out our Pest control section in Plant 101 for how to identify and deal with pests on your plant! 

Multiple possibilities. All easily fixed. Firstly, this may not be a problem at all. Overly mature leaves naturally fall away to make room new growth. But if many leaves are falling over before their time, it’s probably over or under watering. If the soil is bone dry, add a moderate amount of water for a few days in a row. Then be more diligent with your watering routine. If the soil is soaked, check your drainage and let the soil fully dry before starting a better routine. Light issues: Snake plants do well in low light but if they’re getting no light leaves may start to keel over. Move into some nice, bright, indirect light. Other causes? Maybe your Snake plant has outgrown its pot. This can cause it to become root-bound. It’s time to repot in something at least 2 inches wider. 

Probably overwatering. Are the leaves also a bit mushy? These are signs of root rot. Not to worry, when caught early this is easily fixable. Reduce watering and ensure the soil dries out before watering. Check your pot’s drainage. Does it have a hole that allows excess water to escape? Help things dry by poking holes in the soil. This will get oxygen to the roots. You can also put the pot (with drainage holes) in a tray that’s lined with a layer of dry soil. It acts like a sponge to draw out extra moisture. Now, let’s check for root rot. Dig down and cut out any that look affected. If things are really bad, consider repotting entirely with new soil. For more information check out our Plant 101 section. 

Under-watering. Check the soil. It’s probably bone dry. Instead of dousing it all at once. Give your Snake plant a medium amount of water three days in a row. Nice and easy. Make sure it’s never sitting in pools of water. Those droopy leaves should rebound by day three. 

Use a rich, well-draining, indoor potting soil, like Miracle-Gro® Indoor Potting Mix. Ensure your pot has good drainage. Don’t let it sit in water and if you notice water pooling in the drainage tray, empty it. 

Repot every 1 to 2 years in the Spring, especially with younger plants. Increase pot by 2 inches every time. When your Rubber plant is older and becomes a big fella, repotting gets hard! So you can just replace the top few inches of soil. 

Be careful what you start, because these plants get big! Pick a stem showing thick, healthy leaves and cut halfway up the stem. Milky sap will come out, and it’s an irritant you want to avoid. Remove the bottom leaves to give yourself a nice stretch of stem. It’s not the easiest propagator, so you’ll need rooting hormone to encourage roots. Dip your stem in the hormone and pot it moist soil, like Miracle-Gro® Indoor Potting Mix. 

Look for mealybugs, scale insects, and spider mites. During your regular leaf cleaning, inspect the underside of each leaf. Check out our Pest control section in Plant 101 for how to identify and deal with pests on your plant! 

Too much direct sunlight. Rubber plants don’t like direct sun. It’s too hot on those big, broad leave, and they’ll lose moisture, causing these patchy pale spots. Shade the window or move your plant away from this direct sun. Sadly, the spots don’t heal, so consider removing the most damaged ones. 

Rubber plants get stressed out easily. Any sudden change is likely to trigger leaf drop. Blasts of air conditioning or furnace heat. Cold drafts under a door. Being taken home from the nursery is also a big change in your plant’s life! Expect droppage. If you have not moved it recently and you can’t source any sudden temp changes then it could be overly dry air, or under watering and feeding. Review your care routine and your Rubber plant should… bounce back. 

Possible sunburn, or worse, leaf spot. If your Rubber plant is sitting in direct sunlight, it’s probably sunburn. Especially if it’s getting hot Summer sun. Move to still-bright indirect spot. If it’s not sunburn, it could be leaf spot, a fungal disease. Overwatering, especially in the winter, is usually the cause. First, avoid spreading to other plants by separating them physically. Remove all spotty leaves and check for plant debris in the pot. If you’re misting, stop. You want the leaves to get dry. Treat with fungicide. 

Probably root rot from overwatering. Do you also notice mushy stems and/or slower growth? These are all signs of root rot. Not to worry, when caught early this is easily fixable. Reduce watering and ensure the soil dries out before watering. Check your pot’s drainage. Does it have a hole that allows excess water to escape? Help things dry by poking holes in the soil. This will get oxygen to the roots. You can also put the pot (with drainage holes) in a tray that’s lined with a layer of dry soil. It acts like a sponge to draw out extra moisture. Now, let’s check for root rot. Dig down and cut out any that look affected. If things are really bad, consider repotting entirely with new soil. For more information check out our Plant 101 section.

Wait until it’s warm to plant outdoors. Soil temps should  be around 16°C. Space larger varieties like the classic Bell 18 to 24 inches apart. They grow quite large and spread roots.  

Pepper plants grow well beside asparagus, basil, carrots, cucumbers, eggplant, endive, oregano, parsley, rosemary, squash, Swiss chard, and tomatoes. Don’t plant peppers next to beans, broccoli, cabbage cauliflower, or fennel. 

Pick your peppers when they reach full size and full colour.  Bell peppers can be picked green, but they’ll turn into sweeter red peppers if you keep them on the plant. Just saying. 

Routinely look under the leaves of your peppers. Most common pests are Aphids (clusters of tiny greenish-yellow bugs) and Spider Mites (tiny white spots and silky threads). If you see either of these little suckers, treat immediately with a gentle pesticide like Ortho® Bug B gon ECO Insecticidal Soap.  

Possibility 1: Some combination of too much nitrogen and not enough phosphorus. Put compost in the soil before planting, and add to mature plants by side dressing the roots. Or add a phosphorous-rich fertilizer like Miracle–Gro® Nature’s Care Organic Bone Meal (not Blood Meal!).

Possibility 2: Cold at night. Build a wire cage around your plants and tent them with plastic sheeting.

Possibility 3: Not pollinating. They need a breeze to spread the pollen within their flowers. You can simulate this by shaking them gently. 

Incomplete Pollination: Plant some bright, cheery flowers in your vegetable gardens to attract bees and other pollinators. Peppers can usually self-pollinate if there’s enough of a breeze. You can become the pollinator. Gently shake the plants, or even pick a couple pepper flowers and dab them into the ones still on the plant. 

Probably Cutworms. Check the soil for gray grubs about 1/2 inch (1 cm). They love to eat stems, roots, and leaves. Protect your vines with a 3 inch paper collar around the base. You can also sprinkle wood ash around the base. It helps to keep your garden weed free. 

Likely Aphids. Look for teeny-tiny oval, and yellowish– green pear-shaped insects, clustering under the leaves. They excrete a sticky waste called honeydew (far too pleasant a name) which turns into black powdery mold. Treat with insecticidal soap. 

Your peppers are cold. Plant when it’s warm, and the soil reaches 60 F (16 C). You can build a wire frame around your plants and tent them with plastic during cold nights. Consider hardier varieties better suited to your regional climate.