Grow impatiens in nutrient-rich soil with good drainage. Adding peat moss to clay soil will help. If you’re planting in a container such as a window box or hanging basket, use a good-draining potting soil like Miracle-Gro® potting mix.

Enrich your soil with nutrients. Fertilize your soil with aged compost before planting. This organic matter will provide your impatiens the extra nutrients they need to thrive.

Plant food makes a big difference. Add a slow-release granular plant food at planting time, like Miracle-Gro® Shake ‘n Feed All Purpose Plant Food. Throughout the growing season, add a water-soluble plant food every two weeks such as Miracle-Gro® Water Soluble Bloom Booster. Use a water-soluble plant food every two weeks according to the instructions. You can also reapply the slow-release plant food midway through the season. Let’s boost those blooms!

Planting Impatiens close together encourages them to grow taller. Space them about six inches apart. Not any closer, because the crowding could encourage mold to grow. If you want your Impatiens to act like more of a sprawling ground cover, space them further apart, about a foot. 

Impatiens are good in a veggie garden because their cheery flowers attract pollinators. They also make excellent companions for other plants and flowers like Asparagus fern, Begonias, Bacopa, Coleus, Fuchsia, Sweet potato vine and White Baby’s Breath.

Impatiens provide a bounty of brightly colored blooms, even in shady areas. Colours include white, red, pink, violet, coral, purple, and yellow.

Impatiens are fairly pest resistant, but you may get Aphids (yellowish-green clusters of small insects) or Red Spider Mites (tiny red bugs and white dusty substance under leaves). Fight these pests with a gentle insecticide like Ortho® Bug B Gon ECO Insecticidial Soap. For prevention, try planting aromatic herbs nearby, like chamomile, garlic or rosemary.

Impatiens blooms do have a life cycle and wilt naturally, but if all the blooms go suddenly at the same time, it’s probably a combination of too much heat and sun, and not enough water. Impatiens prefer shady, partial sun locations that shield them from peak daytime sun. Impatiens transplant well if you use lots of water, so move them to a shadier space. 

Not enough water. Impatiens want consistently moist soil that doesn’t get soggy. Leaf drop and bud drop are other signs of drought stress. 

Probably the Impatiens Necrotic Spot Virus. This incurable virus is spread by bugs known as Thrips. Unfortunately, there is no treatment. Stop the spread by uprooting and tossing the plant in a yard waste bag. Once it’s contained you can start over.

It’s probably Downy Mildew, which can causes leaves to shrivel. It begins as a yellow or white stippling on the underside of the leaves. Prune infected leaves on generally healthy plants, and remove badly infected plants entirely. For maintenance, keep your beds clear of damp, rotting plant material. 

Grow impatiens in nutrient-rich soil with good drainage. Adding peat moss to clay soil will help. If you’re planting in a container such as a window box or hanging basket, use a good-draining potting soil like Miracle-Gro® potting mix.

Enrich your soil with nutrients. Fertilize your soil with aged compost before planting. This organic matter will provide your impatiens the extra nutrients they need to thrive.

Plant food makes a big difference. Add a slow-release granular plant food at planting time, like Miracle-Gro® Shake ‘n Feed All Purpose Plant Food. Throughout the growing season, add a water-soluble plant food every two weeks such as Miracle-Gro® Water Soluble Bloom Booster. Use a water-soluble plant food every two weeks according to the instructions. You can also reapply the slow-release plant food midway through the season. Let’s boost those blooms!

Planting Impatiens close together encourages them to grow taller. Space them about six inches apart. Not any closer, because the crowding could encourage mold to grow. If you want your Impatiens to act like more of a sprawling ground cover, space them further apart, about a foot. 

Impatiens are good in a veggie garden because their cheery flowers attract pollinators. They also make excellent companions for other plants and flowers like Asparagus fern, Begonias, Bacopa, Coleus, Fuchsia, Sweet potato vine and White Baby’s Breath.

Impatiens provide a bounty of brightly colored blooms, even in shady areas. Colours include white, red, pink, violet, coral, purple, and yellow.

Impatiens are fairly pest resistant, but you may get Aphids (yellowish-green clusters of small insects) or Red Spider Mites (tiny red bugs and white dusty substance under leaves). Fight these pests with a gentle insecticide like Ortho® Bug B Gon ECO Insecticidial Soap. For prevention, try planting aromatic herbs nearby, like chamomile, garlic or rosemary.

Impatiens blooms do have a life cycle and wilt naturally, but if all the blooms go suddenly at the same time, it’s probably a combination of too much heat and sun, and not enough water. Impatiens prefer shady, partial sun locations that shield them from peak daytime sun. Impatiens transplant well if you use lots of water, so move them to a shadier space. 

Not enough water. Impatiens want consistently moist soil that doesn’t get soggy. Leaf drop and bud drop are other signs of drought stress. 

Probably the Impatiens Necrotic Spot Virus. This incurable virus is spread by bugs known as Thrips. Unfortunately, there is no treatment. Stop the spread by uprooting and tossing the plant in a yard waste bag. Once it’s contained you can start over.

It’s probably Downy Mildew, which can causes leaves to shrivel. It begins as a yellow or white stippling on the underside of the leaves. Prune infected leaves on generally healthy plants, and remove badly infected plants entirely. For maintenance, keep your beds clear of damp, rotting plant material. 

Grow impatiens in nutrient-rich soil with good drainage. Adding peat moss to clay soil will help. If you’re planting in a container such as a window box or hanging basket, use a good-draining potting soil like Miracle-Gro® potting mix.

Enrich your soil with nutrients. Fertilize your soil with aged compost before planting. This organic matter will provide your impatiens the extra nutrients they need to thrive.

Plant food makes a big difference. Add a slow-release granular plant food at planting time, like Miracle-Gro® Shake ‘n Feed All Purpose Plant Food. Throughout the growing season, add a water-soluble plant food every two weeks such as Miracle-Gro® Water Soluble Bloom Booster. Use a water-soluble plant food every two weeks according to the instructions. You can also reapply the slow-release plant food midway through the season. Let’s boost those blooms!

Planting Impatiens close together encourages them to grow taller. Space them about six inches apart. Not any closer, because the crowding could encourage mold to grow. If you want your Impatiens to act like more of a sprawling ground cover, space them further apart, about a foot. 

Impatiens are good in a veggie garden because their cheery flowers attract pollinators. They also make excellent companions for other plants and flowers like Asparagus fern, Begonias, Bacopa, Coleus, Fuchsia, Sweet potato vine and White Baby’s Breath.

Impatiens provide a bounty of brightly colored blooms, even in shady areas. Colours include white, red, pink, violet, coral, purple, and yellow.

Impatiens are fairly pest resistant, but you may get Aphids (yellowish-green clusters of small insects) or Red Spider Mites (tiny red bugs and white dusty substance under leaves). Fight these pests with a gentle insecticide like Ortho® Bug B Gon ECO Insecticidial Soap. For prevention, try planting aromatic herbs nearby, like chamomile, garlic or rosemary.

Impatiens blooms do have a life cycle and wilt naturally, but if all the blooms go suddenly at the same time, it’s probably a combination of too much heat and sun, and not enough water. Impatiens prefer shady, partial sun locations that shield them from peak daytime sun. Impatiens transplant well if you use lots of water, so move them to a shadier space. 

Not enough water. Impatiens want consistently moist soil that doesn’t get soggy. Leaf drop and bud drop are other signs of drought stress. 

Probably the Impatiens Necrotic Spot Virus. This incurable virus is spread by bugs known as Thrips. Unfortunately, there is no treatment. Stop the spread by uprooting and tossing the plant in a yard waste bag. Once it’s contained you can start over.

It’s probably Downy Mildew, which can causes leaves to shrivel. It begins as a yellow or white stippling on the underside of the leaves. Prune infected leaves on generally healthy plants, and remove badly infected plants entirely. For maintenance, keep your beds clear of damp, rotting plant material. 

Grow impatiens in nutrient-rich soil with good drainage. Adding peat moss to clay soil will help. If you’re planting in a container such as a window box or hanging basket, use a good-draining potting soil like Miracle-Gro® potting mix.

Enrich your soil with nutrients. Fertilize your soil with aged compost before planting. This organic matter will provide your impatiens the extra nutrients they need to thrive.

Plant food makes a big difference. Add a slow-release granular plant food at planting time, like Miracle-Gro® Shake ‘n Feed All Purpose Plant Food. Throughout the growing season, add a water-soluble plant food every two weeks such as Miracle-Gro® Water Soluble Bloom Booster. Use a water-soluble plant food every two weeks according to the instructions. You can also reapply the slow-release plant food midway through the season. Let’s boost those blooms!

Planting Impatiens close together encourages them to grow taller. Space them about six inches apart. Not any closer, because the crowding could encourage mold to grow. If you want your Impatiens to act like more of a sprawling ground cover, space them further apart, about a foot. 

Impatiens are good in a veggie garden because their cheery flowers attract pollinators. They also make excellent companions for other plants and flowers like Asparagus fern, Begonias, Bacopa, Coleus, Fuchsia, Sweet potato vine and White Baby’s Breath.

Impatiens provide a bounty of brightly colored blooms, even in shady areas. Colours include white, red, pink, violet, coral, purple, and yellow.

Impatiens are fairly pest resistant, but you may get Aphids (yellowish-green clusters of small insects) or Red Spider Mites (tiny red bugs and white dusty substance under leaves). Fight these pests with a gentle insecticide like Ortho® Bug B Gon ECO Insecticidial Soap. For prevention, try planting aromatic herbs nearby, like chamomile, garlic or rosemary.

Impatiens blooms do have a life cycle and wilt naturally, but if all the blooms go suddenly at the same time, it’s probably a combination of too much heat and sun, and not enough water. Impatiens prefer shady, partial sun locations that shield them from peak daytime sun. Impatiens transplant well if you use lots of water, so move them to a shadier space. 

Not enough water. Impatiens want consistently moist soil that doesn’t get soggy. Leaf drop and bud drop are other signs of drought stress. 

Probably the Impatiens Necrotic Spot Virus. This incurable virus is spread by bugs known as Thrips. Unfortunately, there is no treatment. Stop the spread by uprooting and tossing the plant in a yard waste bag. Once it’s contained you can start over.

It’s probably Downy Mildew, which can causes leaves to shrivel. It begins as a yellow or white stippling on the underside of the leaves. Prune infected leaves on generally healthy plants, and remove badly infected plants entirely. For maintenance, keep your beds clear of damp, rotting plant material. 

Grow impatiens in nutrient-rich soil with good drainage. Adding peat moss to clay soil will help. If you’re planting in a container such as a window box or hanging basket, use a good-draining potting soil like Miracle-Gro® potting mix.

Enrich your soil with nutrients. Fertilize your soil with aged compost before planting. This organic matter will provide your impatiens the extra nutrients they need to thrive.

Plant food makes a big difference. Add a slow-release granular plant food at planting time, like Miracle-Gro® Shake ‘n Feed All Purpose Plant Food. Throughout the growing season, add a water-soluble plant food every two weeks such as Miracle-Gro® Water Soluble Bloom Booster. Use a water-soluble plant food every two weeks according to the instructions. You can also reapply the slow-release plant food midway through the season. Let’s boost those blooms!

Planting Impatiens close together encourages them to grow taller. Space them about six inches apart. Not any closer, because the crowding could encourage mold to grow. If you want your Impatiens to act like more of a sprawling ground cover, space them further apart, about a foot. 

Impatiens are good in a veggie garden because their cheery flowers attract pollinators. They also make excellent companions for other plants and flowers like Asparagus fern, Begonias, Bacopa, Coleus, Fuchsia, Sweet potato vine and White Baby’s Breath.

Impatiens provide a bounty of brightly colored blooms, even in shady areas. Colours include white, red, pink, violet, coral, purple, and yellow.

Impatiens are fairly pest resistant, but you may get Aphids (yellowish-green clusters of small insects) or Red Spider Mites (tiny red bugs and white dusty substance under leaves). Fight these pests with a gentle insecticide like Ortho® Bug B Gon ECO Insecticidial Soap. For prevention, try planting aromatic herbs nearby, like chamomile, garlic or rosemary.

Impatiens blooms do have a life cycle and wilt naturally, but if all the blooms go suddenly at the same time, it’s probably a combination of too much heat and sun, and not enough water. Impatiens prefer shady, partial sun locations that shield them from peak daytime sun. Impatiens transplant well if you use lots of water, so move them to a shadier space. 

Not enough water. Impatiens want consistently moist soil that doesn’t get soggy. Leaf drop and bud drop are other signs of drought stress. 

Probably the Impatiens Necrotic Spot Virus. This incurable virus is spread by bugs known as Thrips. Unfortunately, there is no treatment. Stop the spread by uprooting and tossing the plant in a yard waste bag. Once it’s contained you can start over.

It’s probably Downy Mildew, which can causes leaves to shrivel. It begins as a yellow or white stippling on the underside of the leaves. Prune infected leaves on generally healthy plants, and remove badly infected plants entirely. For maintenance, keep your beds clear of damp, rotting plant material. 

Grow impatiens in nutrient-rich soil with good drainage. Adding peat moss to clay soil will help. If you’re planting in a container such as a window box or hanging basket, use a good-draining potting soil like Miracle-Gro® potting mix.

Enrich your soil with nutrients. Fertilize your soil with aged compost before planting. This organic matter will provide your impatiens the extra nutrients they need to thrive.

Plant food makes a big difference. Add a slow-release granular plant food at planting time, like Miracle-Gro® Shake ‘n Feed All Purpose Plant Food. Throughout the growing season, add a water-soluble plant food every two weeks such as Miracle-Gro® Water Soluble Bloom Booster. Use a water-soluble plant food every two weeks according to the instructions. You can also reapply the slow-release plant food midway through the season. Let’s boost those blooms!

Planting Impatiens close together encourages them to grow taller. Space them about six inches apart. Not any closer, because the crowding could encourage mold to grow. If you want your Impatiens to act like more of a sprawling ground cover, space them further apart, about a foot. 

Impatiens are good in a veggie garden because their cheery flowers attract pollinators. They also make excellent companions for other plants and flowers like Asparagus fern, Begonias, Bacopa, Coleus, Fuchsia, Sweet potato vine and White Baby’s Breath.

Impatiens provide a bounty of brightly colored blooms, even in shady areas. Colours include white, red, pink, violet, coral, purple, and yellow.

Impatiens are fairly pest resistant, but you may get Aphids (yellowish-green clusters of small insects) or Red Spider Mites (tiny red bugs and white dusty substance under leaves). Fight these pests with a gentle insecticide like Ortho® Bug B Gon ECO Insecticidial Soap. For prevention, try planting aromatic herbs nearby, like chamomile, garlic or rosemary.

Impatiens blooms do have a life cycle and wilt naturally, but if all the blooms go suddenly at the same time, it’s probably a combination of too much heat and sun, and not enough water. Impatiens prefer shady, partial sun locations that shield them from peak daytime sun. Impatiens transplant well if you use lots of water, so move them to a shadier space. 

Not enough water. Impatiens want consistently moist soil that doesn’t get soggy. Leaf drop and bud drop are other signs of drought stress. 

Probably the Impatiens Necrotic Spot Virus. This incurable virus is spread by bugs known as Thrips. Unfortunately, there is no treatment. Stop the spread by uprooting and tossing the plant in a yard waste bag. Once it’s contained you can start over.

It’s probably Downy Mildew, which can causes leaves to shrivel. It begins as a yellow or white stippling on the underside of the leaves. Prune infected leaves on generally healthy plants, and remove badly infected plants entirely. For maintenance, keep your beds clear of damp, rotting plant material. 

ZZ prefers a light, well-draining potting soil like Miracle-Gro Cactus, Palm and Succulent Potting Mix. Or, use regular potting soil and add some potting sand or perlite. Ensure the pot has good drainage and avoid standing water. Empty drainage trays if you see water collecting. 

In the right light, ZZ grows quickly. Amazingly, they actually enjoy being a little rootbound, so you don’t need to repot as often as other plants. Repot every 3 to 4 years in the Spring, especially with younger plants. Increase pot by 2 inches every time. If you want to slow down growth, do some root trimming. In later years you can replace the top couple inches of soil instead of completely repotting.

Even propagation is easy with ZZ. Dig up the thick root ball and cut it in half. You can technically propagate your ZZ via stem and leaf cuttings, but it’s so much harder than cutting the root ball that we don’t recommend it. 

Can get mealybugs and spider mites. When you’re dusting those glossy leaves, inspect the undersides. Check out our Pest control section in Plant 101 for how to identify and deal with pests on your plant! 

Overwatering. By far the most common problem with ZZ. Especially in Winter when it doesn’t need (or want) much water at all. If the plant has been sitting in water, it may have root rot. This problem is no big deal if you catch it early. First, stop watering! Let’s dry out that soil. Check your pot’s drainage. Does it have a hole that allows excess water to escape? Help things dry by poking holes in the soil. This will get oxygen to the roots. You can also put the pot (with drainage holes) in a tray that’s lined with a layer of dry soil. It acts like a sponge to draw out extra moisture. Now, let’s check for root rot. Dig down and cut out any that look affected. If things are really bad, consider repotting entirely with new soil. Moving forward, allow ZZ’s soil to dry between watering. The top couple inches should be dry to the touch. For more information check out our Plant 101 section. 

Probably stressed. ZZ is tough but not invincible. If you’ve moved it recently that may have stressed it out. Did you just bring it home from the nursery? That’s a big change. Leaf drop is most common when ZZ was in shade and suddenly put in full sun. Ease you plant to new area when you can. If you haven’t moved it recently, check for wet or totally bone-dry soil. See above for proper watering regimen. 

Sunburn. It can handle some direct sun, but long Summer exposure can burn even the mighty ZZ. Try moving your plant somewhere that’s still bright, but with indirect light.

Not enough light. ZZ survives well in low light, but it takes bright light for ZZ to thrive and grow. If you’re happy with the size, keep it shady. If you want to see ZZ’s impressive growth in action, move it somewhere with plenty of bright and mostly indirect light. Make this change gradually if you can. Increase your watering (but just a bit) to suit the increased light. 

Again, overwatering. This is stem rot, spreading up from root rot. Remove all those mushy stems or trim away anything that looks like rot. Now let’s dry the soil and check the roots. Check your pot’s drainage. Does it have a hole that allows excess water to escape? Help things dry by poking holes in the soil. This will get oxygen to the roots. You can also put the pot (with drainage holes) in a tray that’s lined with a layer of dry soil. It acts like a sponge to draw out extra moisture. Now, let’s check for root rot. Dig down and cut out any that look affected. If things are really bad, consider repotting entirely with new soil. Moving forward, allow ZZ’s soil to dry between watering. The top couple inches should be dry to the touch. For more information check out our Plant 101 section.

These desert dwellers prefer a light, well-draining potting soil like Miracle-Gro Cactus, Palm and Succulent Potting Mix. Or, use regular potting soil and add some potting sand or perlite. A layer of sand on the top will help prevent rot. Ensure the pot has good drainage and aloe should never sit in water. Empty drainage trays if you see water collecting. 

Repot every 1 to 2 years in the Spring, especially with younger plants. Increase pot diameter by 2 inches every time. Want them to stay cute and little? You can stunt the growth by root trimming. In later years you can replace the top couple inches of soil instead of completely repotting.

Making new succulent plant babies is easy. In fact many propagate on their own. You will notice little mini versions starting grow. These “pups” can be gently separated potted as a new plant. If you’re not getting pups, remove a leaf, let it dry for a couple of days and place it on some moist soil. It should sprout roots, and voila! You have an ultra mini plant. 

Succulents don’t typically suffer from pests, but they can sometimes get bugs. Gnats are most likely. Inspect those juicy little leaves regularly. Check out our Pest control section in Plant 101 for how to identify and deal with pests on your plant! 

A couple of possibilities. Maybe too much direct summer sun. Or possibly overwatering or root damage. First, moving your plant to a still-bright but less sun-blasted spot. Reduce the watering and follow our watering instructions above. If your succulent buddy still doesn’t bounce back, check for root damage.  

Almost certainly too much water. This problem is no big deal if you catch it early. First, stop watering! Let’s dry out that soil. Check your pot’s drainage. Does it have a hole that allows excess water to escape? Help things dry by poking holes in the soil. This will get oxygen to the roots. You can also put the pot (with drainage holes) in a tray that’s lined with a layer of dry soil. It acts like a sponge to draw out extra moisture. Now, let’s check for root rot. Dig down and cut out any that look affected. If things are really bad, consider repotting entirely with new soil. Moving forward, water only when the soil is totally dry and make sure you water the soil, not the leaves. Water can collect between the leaves at its base, and start to rot. A thin layer of sand on top of the soil can reduce pooling water up top. 

For more information check out our Plant 101 section. 

Not enough light and/or overwatering. If the whole plant has yellowed or gone pale, it definitely needs more light. Move your friend to a brighter spot and resist the urge to overwater. Let the top two inches of soil get dry before watering again. 

Your plant needs a drink. Underwatering a succulent is hard to do, but it does happen. Give small amounts of water for three days in a row. Make sure you do this at soil level, not poured on the leaves. This is the ONE TIME it’s okay to do a little misting. A little does a lot. Resist the urge to water all at once! Your friend will plump up in a few days. 

Not enough light. It takes a lot of bright (mostly indirect) light to get succulents growing. If you’re not noticing any growth, or the new growth looks pale, it’s time to move to brighter spot. You may need slightly more frequent watering after the move. Note, succulents grow in slow motion at the best of times, so a little patience goes a long way.

It’s a desert plant, so use a light, well-draining potting soil like Miracle-Gro Cactus, Palm and Succulent Potting Mix. Or, use regular potting soil and add some potting sand or perlite. A layer of sand on the top will help prevent rot. Ensure the pot has good drainage. Snakes should never sit in water. Empty drainage trays if you see water collecting. 

Every 2 to 3 years in the Spring, especially in the earlier years. Increase the pot size by 2 inches each repotting. In later years you can replace the top couple inches of soil instead of completely repotting. Snake growing too fast? Slow the growth by trimming the roots.  

Grab a sharp knife or scissors, find one of the healthiest leaves, and cut it off at the base of the plant.  Then cut the leaf into multiple horizontal strips (about 3 inches each). Let the ends dry for two days then put them in water to stimulate root growth. This step could take 2 to 3 weeks. When you’ve got roots, you’re ready to pot. 

Mealybugs are most common. When you do your regular dusting, inspect the leaves. Check out our Pest control section in Plant 101 for how to identify and deal with pests on your plant! 

Multiple possibilities. All easily fixed. Firstly, this may not be a problem at all. Overly mature leaves naturally fall away to make room new growth. But if many leaves are falling over before their time, it’s probably over or under watering. If the soil is bone dry, add a moderate amount of water for a few days in a row. Then be more diligent with your watering routine. If the soil is soaked, check your drainage and let the soil fully dry before starting a better routine. Light issues: Snake plants do well in low light but if they’re getting no light leaves may start to keel over. Move into some nice, bright, indirect light. Other causes? Maybe your Snake plant has outgrown its pot. This can cause it to become root-bound. It’s time to repot in something at least 2 inches wider. 

Probably overwatering. Are the leaves also a bit mushy? These are signs of root rot. Not to worry, when caught early this is easily fixable. Reduce watering and ensure the soil dries out before watering. Check your pot’s drainage. Does it have a hole that allows excess water to escape? Help things dry by poking holes in the soil. This will get oxygen to the roots. You can also put the pot (with drainage holes) in a tray that’s lined with a layer of dry soil. It acts like a sponge to draw out extra moisture. Now, let’s check for root rot. Dig down and cut out any that look affected. If things are really bad, consider repotting entirely with new soil. For more information check out our Plant 101 section. 

Under-watering. Check the soil. It’s probably bone dry. Instead of dousing it all at once. Give your Snake plant a medium amount of water three days in a row. Nice and easy. Make sure it’s never sitting in pools of water. Those droopy leaves should rebound by day three.