Expert

fiddle leaf fig

aka ficus lyrata, fiddly fig

Named for their broad, gorgeous violin-shaped leaves. Much like a violin, it requires frequent fine-tuning, but their beauty is worth the extra effort. Description: violin-shaped leaves/ popular / some look bushy some tall and tree like / west Africa / lowland tropic

variations

If you’re new to this plant, the Bambino or Dwarf Fiddle varieties are a good starting point. Common cousins are Ficus Audrey and the Rubber Tree.

light

bright light, please!

Those big leaves crave plenty of bright, indirect light. Tolerates lower light but won’t grow as quickly. Avoid direct summer sun, which can burn the leaves.

water + feeding

dry out between watering

Allow the top two inches to get fully dry, then give it a good watering (without overwatering where water is pooling). Monthly feeding is suggested during spring and summer.

toxic

toxic to humans and pets

Ingestion can cause mouth, stomach irritation and vomiting. Can be severely toxic if a lot is ingested.

location

pick a good spot and stay put

Loves bright indirect light in a warm room. Hates vents shooting it with hot or cold air. Likes to be rotated in place (for even light exposure) but does not like to be moved around.

humidity

loves it

This jungle plant likes it humid. Misting and humidifiers are welcome.

size

a big fella

Given good care, it can grow over 8 to 10 feet tall.

pro tip

clean the leaves

Keep the dust off those big, green beauties. Their broad surfaces attract dust, and therefore dust mites.

fun fact

can grow flowers and even fruit

If you’re lucky to have enough consistently warm weather, this plant will flower and yes, maybe even give you figs.

beyond the basics

  • soil & potting

    Use a rich, well-draining, indoor potting soil, like Miracle-Gro® Indoor Potting Mix. Ensure your pot has good drainage. If you notice water pooling in the drainage tray, empty it.  

  • when to repot

    Every 2-3 years in the Spring, especially in the earlier years. Increase the pot size by 2 inches each repotting. When your Fig is all grown up, you can get away with just replacing the top few inches of soil. 

  • propagation

    Find a stem with 3-4 leaves and cut just below the lowest leaf. Now remove the lower leaves to make room for root growth. Place your stem in a jar of water. Figs can be stubborn to root, so add some rooting hormone to the water.  

  • pest control

    Fiddle Figs are prone to mealybugs, scale insects, and spider mites. Make a routine of dusting and checking under the leaves. Our pest control section in Plant 101 will help you identify and deal with pesky plant pests! 

troubleshooting

  • sudden leaf loss?

    Your friend is stressed out. Figs don’t like sudden changes to their surroundings. Often it’s blasts of hot or cold air a nearby vent. Moving from the nursery to your home is a shock for this gentle giant. If there haven’t been any sudden changes, it could be overly dry air. It could also be too much or too little water. Or too much or too little food. This plant is not the easiest! Review your placement and care routine, and keep doing your best. The leaves should grow back. 

  • dark patches or spots on leaves?

    Possibly a sunburn, or maybe leaf spot. If your Fiddle Fig gets direct sunlight it’s probably sunburn. Lots of indirect light is good but direct sun is bad. If that’s not it, it could be a fungal disease called leaf spot. Overwatering or an overly damp environment are the cause. Stop the spread to other plats, make sure leaves aren’t near each other. Remove infected leaves, including any that have fallen into the pot. If you’re misting, stop. Treat with fungicide as directed. 

  • leaf tips turning brown?

    Low humidity, not enough water or irregular watering.  Give more attention to watering. Routines matter for this plant. Ensure it’s regular and thorough and that the entire root ball is getting wet. Check the room temp. If it’s over 75 F/24 C and the air feels dry, mist the leaves regularly and consider a humidifier. Or put the pot on a pebble filled tray of water. Make sure the pot doesn’t touch the water. 

    Make sure you are watering the plant thoroughly and at regular intervals, getting the whole root ball wet.  

  • yellowing and wilting leaves?

    Probably root rot from overwatering. Do you also notice mushy stems and/or slower growth? These are all signs of root rot. Not to worry, when caught early this is easily fixable. Reduce watering and ensure the soil dries out before watering. Check your pot’s drainage. Does it have a hole that allows excess water to escape? Help things dry by poking holes in the soil. This will get oxygen to the roots. You can also put the pot (with drainage holes) in a tray that’s lined with a layer of dry soil. It acts like a sponge to draw out extra moisture. Now, let’s check for root rot. Dig down and cut out any that look affected. If things are really bad, consider repotting entirely with new soil. For more information check out our Plant 101 section. 

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Beginner

aloe vera

aka aloe barbadensis

Say “Ola” to this easy to grow succulent. Often touted as a “miracle” plant for its skin soothing gel, but the real miracle is how cute they look. An all-around great plant for rookies and exerts alike. Description: easy to grow succulent / soothes burns and skin irritations / southeast Arabian Peninsula / tropical

variations

Aloe Vera has a whopping 250 varieties. So many wonderful little differences to mix and match.

light

bright, indirect light

Find a spot with plenty of indirect light, and ideally a few hours of direct light.

water + feeding

allow to mostly dry out between watering

The top inch should be dry before watering again. Don’t overwater! It’s a desert plant. Feed once in spring, and once in summer.

toxic

safe on skin post likely toxic to ingest

Aloe gel is safe and soothing on the skin. You can even eat some varieties, but note! Most can cause indigestion, vomiting and airway irritation if eaten. Unless you’re 100% sure, keep away from kids and pets.

location

adaptable

Comfy with average indoor temperatures. Prefers things on the warmer side and doesn’t like drafts.

humidity

not an issue

Appreciates an occasional misting to control dust. Humidity levels aren’t a concern for this hearty little fella.

size

small to medium

Usually bought small and can to about 2 feet.

pro tip

water at soil level

Aloe doesn’t like water pooling in the creases between its leaves. That can cause leaf rot.

fun fact

it’s a super soother

Those thick, juicy leaves contain a soothing green gel that can be applied directly to burns (especially sun burns) and bug bites. External use only! It’s toxic to ingest.

beyond the basics

  • soil & potting

    Use a light, well-draining potting soil like Miracle-Gro Cactus, Palm and Succulent Potting Mix. Or, use regular potting soil and add some potting sand or perlite. A layer of sand on the top will help prevent rot. Ensure the pot has good drainage and aloe should never sit in water. Empty drainage trays if you see water collecting.

  • when to repot

    Every 3-4 years in the spring. Especially when they’re small and growing. Increase pot diameter by 2 inches each time, and refresh the top few inches of soil. Growing too fast? You can slow the growth by trimming the roots. 

  • propagation

    Aloe self-propagates. It will make baby offshoots (also called ‘pups’). Leave pups on the main plant or, pot as a separate plant! Wait until the pup is at least 2” tall, then dig under the pup and find the roots at the base. Gently tug or trim the roots, they are key to the pup’s survival. You now have a new plant baby! See Soil + Potting above for planting instructions. 

  • pest control

    Aloe is prone to scale insects on the leaves. See our Pest control section in Plant 101 for how to identify and deal with pests on your plant! 

troubleshooting

  • leaves turning brown, red or reddish brown?

    Variety of reasons. It could be too much summer sun, overwatering, or roots damage. 

    First, try moving your plant to a spot with less direct sunlight (but still bright). Reduce watering. If your little aloe buddy doesn’t recover check the roots for damage.  

  • dark spots? brown or mushy leaves?

    Probably overwatering. Caught early, this problem is easily corrected. Water at soil level and avoid spilling water on the leaves, cuz the pooling water can cause rot. Two inches of sand on top of the soil will help with drainage. Reduce watering and allow plant to dry out completely between watering. Ensure your pot has a drainage hole to let excess water out. 

    Other tricks: Poke holes in soil to get oxygen to the roots. Put a damp pot (with drainage holes) in a tray or dry soil, to suck up that extra moisture. Check the roots and remove any that have root rot. Consider repotting with new soil if things are a damp mess. For more information check out our Plant 101 section. 

  • pale or yellowing leaves?

    Overwatering or not enough light. Is the entire plant turning pale or yellow? It needs more light. Move to a brighter spot, watch out for soil dampness and avoid over watering. 

     

  • shrunken, wrinkled leaves?

    Your plant needs a drink. But don’t overdo it! Give it a small amount and also mist the leaves. Do this three days in a row. The leaves should rebound, getting nice and plump. 

  • aloe not growing?

     Not enough light. If your aloe isn’t growing, or the new growth is pale in colour, it’s crying out for more light. Most houseplants don’t like direct sun, but this desert-born baby likes it! A little direct sun every day is good, especially in darker winter months. Find a brighter spot and get growing. 

have an idea?
Beginner

fiddle leaf fig

aka ficus lyrata, fiddly fig

Named for their broad, gorgeous violin-shaped leaves. Much like a violin, it requires frequent fine-tuning, but their beauty is worth the extra effort. Description: violin-shaped leaves/ popular / some look bushy some tall and tree like / west Africa / lowland tropic

variations

If you’re new to this plant, the Bambino or Dwarf Fiddle varieties are a good starting point. Common cousins are Ficus Audrey and the Rubber Tree.

light

bright light, please!

Those big leaves crave plenty of bright, indirect light. Tolerates lower light but won’t grow as quickly. Avoid direct summer sun, which can burn the leaves.

water + feeding

dry out between watering

Allow the top two inches to get fully dry, then give it a good watering (without overwatering where water is pooling). Monthly feeding is suggested during spring and summer.

toxic

toxic to humans and pets

Ingestion can cause mouth, stomach irritation and vomiting. Can be severely toxic if a lot is ingested.

location

pick a good spot and stay put

Loves bright indirect light in a warm room. Hates vents shooting it with hot or cold air. Likes to be rotated in place (for even light exposure) but does not like to be moved around.

humidity

loves it

This jungle plant likes it humid. Misting and humidifiers are welcome.

size

a big fella

Given good care, it can grow over 8 to 10 feet tall.

pro tip

clean the leaves

Keep the dust off those big, green beauties. Their broad surfaces attract dust, and therefore dust mites.

fun fact

can grow flowers and even fruit

If you’re lucky to have enough consistently warm weather, this plant will flower and yes, maybe even give you figs.

beyond the basics

  • soil & potting

    Use a rich, well-draining, indoor potting soil, like Miracle-Gro® Indoor Potting Mix. Ensure your pot has good drainage. If you notice water pooling in the drainage tray, empty it.  

  • when to repot

    Monstera grows fast, filling the pot with roots, and can quickly become rootbound. Repot in the Spring every 1 to 2 years, especially with younger plants. Increase your pot by 2 inches. When your Monstera is more mature, you can get away with just replacing the top few inches of soil. 

  • propagation

    Monstera is easy to propagate, especially If you have a node or aerial roots. Make your cut just below the node , then remove the lower leaves. Place your cutting in a glass jar with water and roots will grow within a couple weeks. For more information on propagation check out our propagation project page! 

  • pest control

    The most common pest is mealybugs. Look under those leaves when doing your regular cleaning. Check out our Pest control section in Plant 101 for how to identify and deal with pests on your plant! 

troubleshooting

  • yellow leaves?

    You’re probably overwatering. Are the leaves are also wilting? It’s almost certainly too much water, but this problem is easy to solve if caught early. Let your Monstera dry out completely. Make sure your plant pot has a drainage hole to allow excess water to escape. 

    If you’ve caught it early you should be able to fix this rather easily. Try poking holes in soil to allow for oxygen to get to the roots, or place pot (with drainage holes) in a tray or container with dry soil. This will soak up excess moisture. Finally check for root rot, remove any roots that seem affected, you may want to repot with fresh dry soil. For more information check out our Plant 101 section. 

  • leaf tips and edges turning brown?

    Could be a variety of reasons. Dry air, dry potting mix, too low of temperatures, or outgrowing pot size. If the room this plant is in is over 75 F/24 C and the air feels dry try a humidifier or placing plant on a pebble filled try of water. Mist leaves regularly. If near a heat vent move it away. If the room is too cold, or near a cold window move somewhere warmer. 

    Check if roots are bound or sneaking out the bottom drainage hole. Repot if necessary. 

  • plant ‘crying’?

    Too much water. Monstera leaves can drip if their potting mix is too wet. Slow down on the watering. Make sure the top two inches of potting mix get fully dry between waterings. 

  • no holes in the leaves?

    Probably not a problem! Young plants don’t have them. But if you have a mature plant that’s stopped producing holes with leaves, something is wrong. Check your location, watering and feeding routine. 

  • mold on the surface soil?

    Overwatering, too little time between watering. Mold (and even mushrooms) growing on your soil is not a direct threat. But it IS a sign of overwatering. Root rot can follow if not addressed. Water less frequently and make sure you let the top two inches of soil fully dry before watering. Ensure you have proper drainage. If things look really moldy, you can remove the top inch or so of soil. 

     

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