Bush beans: Don’t plant too early. Beans grow quickly and like warm conditions. Plant seeds in rows, 1 inch deep and 1 to 2 inches apart. Space the rows 2½ to 3 feet apart. Once the beans sprout, thin out half the shoots so your plants are 3 to 4 inches apart.  

Pole beans: Don’t plant too early. Beans grow quickly and like warm conditions. Till the soil to a depth of 8 to 10 inches, breaking up large clods of earth. Plant 3 to 4 seeds together in raised mounds. Seeds should be 1 inch under the surface. Space your mounds 3 to 4 feet apart in neat rows. Firmly insert a 6- to 8-foot stake in the center of each mound. 

Carrots, cabbage, cauliflower Brussel sprouts, celery, kale, lettuce, parsley, peas, spinach strawberries, Swiss chard and tomatoes, make excellent companions for green beans. 

Depends on the variety, but generally speaking, overmature beans grow tough and less tender. Green beans are ready to pick when they reach the size of a half-used pencil. Pick gently to avoid damaging the plant. 

Beans a hardy, speedy growers but they are susceptible to pests. The western spotted cucumber beetle can ravage green bean plants. This beetle is shaped kind of like a ladybug, and has yellow-green back with 12 large dots. Aphids are another green been pest. Check under you leaves regularly for clusters of these tiny yellowish-green bugs. Other insect pests of green beans include thrips, whiteflies, leafhoppers and Mexican bean beetles. All can be managed with a safe pest spray like Ortho® Bug B Gon® ECO Insecticide.

Could be a fungal infection known as Anthracnose. This disease causes reddish brown marks known as “rust” on the leaves and vines. Apply a fungicide soap. Long term tip: rotate your crops to help fight this problem. 

Could be Aphids or Whiteflies. Check under the leaves for sap-sucking Aphids (tiny, usually yellowish-green clusters of bugs ). Whiteflies are small bugs with white wings. They aren’t directly harmful to your beans, but they can carry the Cucurbit Leaf Crumple Virus. Fight these pests with a gentle insecticide like Ortho® Bug B Gon® ECO Insecticide . Don’t plant anything new near the plants that you’re treating. 

Soil isn’t warm enough. Beans love warm soil and don’t grow well when it’s cold. They grow so fast that you can start later in the growing season. Plant in warm, sunny spots. Not enough water could also be the issue. Moist soil is especially important during flowering and the early pod stage. Another common mistake is using too much fertilizer. Beans have the amazing and rare ability to pull nitrogen from the air, so they don’t need nitrogen fertilizer in their soil. High nitrogen generally makes food plants grow lots of greenery and not many flowers. A garden centre can test your soil nitrogen levels if you want to get scientific. 

Most beans are self-pollinating plants that don’t require bees or other helpful bugs. But some DO need pollinators. Check to see which type you have.  

If you do need pollinators, plant some bright, colourful flowers in your garden to attract pollinators. In the short term, you can be the bee! Get a small paintbrush and gently spread pollen around all your flowers. 

Damage at the base of the vine. Did a bean pole shift? Did string wind flip over your bean bush? Protect that base by firmly securing poles and make sure everything is secure. If you have a firmly secured pole in place before you plant your seedlings, you can often avoid this problem.  

Bush beans: Don’t plant too early. Beans grow quickly and like warm conditions. Plant seeds in rows, 1 inch deep and 1 to 2 inches apart. Space the rows 2½ to 3 feet apart. Once the beans sprout, thin out half the shoots so your plants are 3 to 4 inches apart.  

Pole beans: Don’t plant too early. Beans grow quickly and like warm conditions. Till the soil to a depth of 8 to 10 inches, breaking up large clods of earth. Plant 3 to 4 seeds together in raised mounds. Seeds should be 1 inch under the surface. Space your mounds 3 to 4 feet apart in neat rows. Firmly insert a 6- to 8-foot stake in the center of each mound. 

Carrots, cabbage, cauliflower Brussel sprouts, celery, kale, lettuce, parsley, peas, spinach strawberries, Swiss chard and tomatoes, make excellent companions for green beans. 

Depends on the variety, but generally speaking, overmature beans grow tough and less tender. Green beans are ready to pick when they reach the size of a half-used pencil. Pick gently to avoid damaging the plant. 

Beans a hardy, speedy growers but they are susceptible to pests. The western spotted cucumber beetle can ravage green bean plants. This beetle is shaped kind of like a ladybug, and has yellow-green back with 12 large dots. Aphids are another green been pest. Check under you leaves regularly for clusters of these tiny yellowish-green bugs. Other insect pests of green beans include thrips, whiteflies, leafhoppers and Mexican bean beetles. All can be managed with a safe pest spray like Ortho® Bug B Gon® ECO Insecticide.

Could be a fungal infection known as Anthracnose. This disease causes reddish brown marks known as “rust” on the leaves and vines. Apply a fungicide soap. Long term tip: rotate your crops to help fight this problem. 

Could be Aphids or Whiteflies. Check under the leaves for sap-sucking Aphids (tiny, usually yellowish-green clusters of bugs ). Whiteflies are small bugs with white wings. They aren’t directly harmful to your beans, but they can carry the Cucurbit Leaf Crumple Virus. Fight these pests with a gentle insecticide like Ortho® Bug B Gon® ECO Insecticide . Don’t plant anything new near the plants that you’re treating. 

Soil isn’t warm enough. Beans love warm soil and don’t grow well when it’s cold. They grow so fast that you can start later in the growing season. Plant in warm, sunny spots. Not enough water could also be the issue. Moist soil is especially important during flowering and the early pod stage. Another common mistake is using too much fertilizer. Beans have the amazing and rare ability to pull nitrogen from the air, so they don’t need nitrogen fertilizer in their soil. High nitrogen generally makes food plants grow lots of greenery and not many flowers. A garden centre can test your soil nitrogen levels if you want to get scientific. 

Most beans are self-pollinating plants that don’t require bees or other helpful bugs. But some DO need pollinators. Check to see which type you have.  

If you do need pollinators, plant some bright, colourful flowers in your garden to attract pollinators. In the short term, you can be the bee! Get a small paintbrush and gently spread pollen around all your flowers. 

Damage at the base of the vine. Did a bean pole shift? Did string wind flip over your bean bush? Protect that base by firmly securing poles and make sure everything is secure. If you have a firmly secured pole in place before you plant your seedlings, you can often avoid this problem.  

Bush beans: Don’t plant too early. Beans grow quickly and like warm conditions. Plant seeds in rows, 1 inch deep and 1 to 2 inches apart. Space the rows 2½ to 3 feet apart. Once the beans sprout, thin out half the shoots so your plants are 3 to 4 inches apart.  

Pole beans: Don’t plant too early. Beans grow quickly and like warm conditions. Till the soil to a depth of 8 to 10 inches, breaking up large clods of earth. Plant 3 to 4 seeds together in raised mounds. Seeds should be 1 inch under the surface. Space your mounds 3 to 4 feet apart in neat rows. Firmly insert a 6- to 8-foot stake in the center of each mound. 

Carrots, cabbage, cauliflower Brussel sprouts, celery, kale, lettuce, parsley, peas, spinach strawberries, Swiss chard and tomatoes, make excellent companions for green beans. 

Depends on the variety, but generally speaking, overmature beans grow tough and less tender. Green beans are ready to pick when they reach the size of a half-used pencil. Pick gently to avoid damaging the plant. 

Beans a hardy, speedy growers but they are susceptible to pests. The western spotted cucumber beetle can ravage green bean plants. This beetle is shaped kind of like a ladybug, and has yellow-green back with 12 large dots. Aphids are another green been pest. Check under you leaves regularly for clusters of these tiny yellowish-green bugs. Other insect pests of green beans include thrips, whiteflies, leafhoppers and Mexican bean beetles. All can be managed with a safe pest spray like Ortho® Bug B Gon® ECO Insecticide.

Could be a fungal infection known as Anthracnose. This disease causes reddish brown marks known as “rust” on the leaves and vines. Apply a fungicide soap. Long term tip: rotate your crops to help fight this problem. 

Could be Aphids or Whiteflies. Check under the leaves for sap-sucking Aphids (tiny, usually yellowish-green clusters of bugs ). Whiteflies are small bugs with white wings. They aren’t directly harmful to your beans, but they can carry the Cucurbit Leaf Crumple Virus. Fight these pests with a gentle insecticide like Ortho® Bug B Gon® ECO Insecticide . Don’t plant anything new near the plants that you’re treating. 

Soil isn’t warm enough. Beans love warm soil and don’t grow well when it’s cold. They grow so fast that you can start later in the growing season. Plant in warm, sunny spots. Not enough water could also be the issue. Moist soil is especially important during flowering and the early pod stage. Another common mistake is using too much fertilizer. Beans have the amazing and rare ability to pull nitrogen from the air, so they don’t need nitrogen fertilizer in their soil. High nitrogen generally makes food plants grow lots of greenery and not many flowers. A garden centre can test your soil nitrogen levels if you want to get scientific. 

Most beans are self-pollinating plants that don’t require bees or other helpful bugs. But some DO need pollinators. Check to see which type you have.  

If you do need pollinators, plant some bright, colourful flowers in your garden to attract pollinators. In the short term, you can be the bee! Get a small paintbrush and gently spread pollen around all your flowers. 

Damage at the base of the vine. Did a bean pole shift? Did string wind flip over your bean bush? Protect that base by firmly securing poles and make sure everything is secure. If you have a firmly secured pole in place before you plant your seedlings, you can often avoid this problem.  

Bush beans: Don’t plant too early. Beans grow quickly and like warm conditions. Plant seeds in rows, 1 inch deep and 1 to 2 inches apart. Space the rows 2½ to 3 feet apart. Once the beans sprout, thin out half the shoots so your plants are 3 to 4 inches apart.  

Pole beans: Don’t plant too early. Beans grow quickly and like warm conditions. Till the soil to a depth of 8 to 10 inches, breaking up large clods of earth. Plant 3 to 4 seeds together in raised mounds. Seeds should be 1 inch under the surface. Space your mounds 3 to 4 feet apart in neat rows. Firmly insert a 6- to 8-foot stake in the center of each mound. 

Carrots, cabbage, cauliflower Brussel sprouts, celery, kale, lettuce, parsley, peas, spinach strawberries, Swiss chard and tomatoes, make excellent companions for green beans. 

Depends on the variety, but generally speaking, overmature beans grow tough and less tender. Green beans are ready to pick when they reach the size of a half-used pencil. Pick gently to avoid damaging the plant. 

Beans a hardy, speedy growers but they are susceptible to pests. The western spotted cucumber beetle can ravage green bean plants. This beetle is shaped kind of like a ladybug, and has yellow-green back with 12 large dots. Aphids are another green been pest. Check under you leaves regularly for clusters of these tiny yellowish-green bugs. Other insect pests of green beans include thrips, whiteflies, leafhoppers and Mexican bean beetles. All can be managed with a safe pest spray like Ortho® Bug B Gon® ECO Insecticide.

Could be a fungal infection known as Anthracnose. This disease causes reddish brown marks known as “rust” on the leaves and vines. Apply a fungicide soap. Long term tip: rotate your crops to help fight this problem. 

Could be Aphids or Whiteflies. Check under the leaves for sap-sucking Aphids (tiny, usually yellowish-green clusters of bugs ). Whiteflies are small bugs with white wings. They aren’t directly harmful to your beans, but they can carry the Cucurbit Leaf Crumple Virus. Fight these pests with a gentle insecticide like Ortho® Bug B Gon® ECO Insecticide . Don’t plant anything new near the plants that you’re treating. 

Soil isn’t warm enough. Beans love warm soil and don’t grow well when it’s cold. They grow so fast that you can start later in the growing season. Plant in warm, sunny spots. Not enough water could also be the issue. Moist soil is especially important during flowering and the early pod stage. Another common mistake is using too much fertilizer. Beans have the amazing and rare ability to pull nitrogen from the air, so they don’t need nitrogen fertilizer in their soil. High nitrogen generally makes food plants grow lots of greenery and not many flowers. A garden centre can test your soil nitrogen levels if you want to get scientific. 

Most beans are self-pollinating plants that don’t require bees or other helpful bugs. But some DO need pollinators. Check to see which type you have.  

If you do need pollinators, plant some bright, colourful flowers in your garden to attract pollinators. In the short term, you can be the bee! Get a small paintbrush and gently spread pollen around all your flowers. 

Damage at the base of the vine. Did a bean pole shift? Did string wind flip over your bean bush? Protect that base by firmly securing poles and make sure everything is secure. If you have a firmly secured pole in place before you plant your seedlings, you can often avoid this problem.  

ZZ prefers a light, well-draining potting soil like Miracle-Gro Cactus, Palm and Succulent Potting Mix. Or, use regular potting soil and add some potting sand or perlite. Ensure the pot has good drainage and avoid standing water. Empty drainage trays if you see water collecting. 

In the right light, ZZ grows quickly. Amazingly, they actually enjoy being a little rootbound, so you don’t need to repot as often as other plants. Repot every 3 to 4 years in the Spring, especially with younger plants. Increase pot by 2 inches every time. If you want to slow down growth, do some root trimming. In later years you can replace the top couple inches of soil instead of completely repotting.

Even propagation is easy with ZZ. Dig up the thick root ball and cut it in half. You can technically propagate your ZZ via stem and leaf cuttings, but it’s so much harder than cutting the root ball that we don’t recommend it. 

Can get mealybugs and spider mites. When you’re dusting those glossy leaves, inspect the undersides. Check out our Pest control section in Plant 101 for how to identify and deal with pests on your plant! 

Overwatering. By far the most common problem with ZZ. Especially in Winter when it doesn’t need (or want) much water at all. If the plant has been sitting in water, it may have root rot. This problem is no big deal if you catch it early. First, stop watering! Let’s dry out that soil. Check your pot’s drainage. Does it have a hole that allows excess water to escape? Help things dry by poking holes in the soil. This will get oxygen to the roots. You can also put the pot (with drainage holes) in a tray that’s lined with a layer of dry soil. It acts like a sponge to draw out extra moisture. Now, let’s check for root rot. Dig down and cut out any that look affected. If things are really bad, consider repotting entirely with new soil. Moving forward, allow ZZ’s soil to dry between watering. The top couple inches should be dry to the touch. For more information check out our Plant 101 section. 

Probably stressed. ZZ is tough but not invincible. If you’ve moved it recently that may have stressed it out. Did you just bring it home from the nursery? That’s a big change. Leaf drop is most common when ZZ was in shade and suddenly put in full sun. Ease you plant to new area when you can. If you haven’t moved it recently, check for wet or totally bone-dry soil. See above for proper watering regimen. 

Sunburn. It can handle some direct sun, but long Summer exposure can burn even the mighty ZZ. Try moving your plant somewhere that’s still bright, but with indirect light.

Not enough light. ZZ survives well in low light, but it takes bright light for ZZ to thrive and grow. If you’re happy with the size, keep it shady. If you want to see ZZ’s impressive growth in action, move it somewhere with plenty of bright and mostly indirect light. Make this change gradually if you can. Increase your watering (but just a bit) to suit the increased light. 

Again, overwatering. This is stem rot, spreading up from root rot. Remove all those mushy stems or trim away anything that looks like rot. Now let’s dry the soil and check the roots. Check your pot’s drainage. Does it have a hole that allows excess water to escape? Help things dry by poking holes in the soil. This will get oxygen to the roots. You can also put the pot (with drainage holes) in a tray that’s lined with a layer of dry soil. It acts like a sponge to draw out extra moisture. Now, let’s check for root rot. Dig down and cut out any that look affected. If things are really bad, consider repotting entirely with new soil. Moving forward, allow ZZ’s soil to dry between watering. The top couple inches should be dry to the touch. For more information check out our Plant 101 section.

These desert dwellers prefer a light, well-draining potting soil like Miracle-Gro Cactus, Palm and Succulent Potting Mix. Or, use regular potting soil and add some potting sand or perlite. A layer of sand on the top will help prevent rot. Ensure the pot has good drainage and aloe should never sit in water. Empty drainage trays if you see water collecting. 

Repot every 1 to 2 years in the Spring, especially with younger plants. Increase pot diameter by 2 inches every time. Want them to stay cute and little? You can stunt the growth by root trimming. In later years you can replace the top couple inches of soil instead of completely repotting.

Making new succulent plant babies is easy. In fact many propagate on their own. You will notice little mini versions starting grow. These “pups” can be gently separated potted as a new plant. If you’re not getting pups, remove a leaf, let it dry for a couple of days and place it on some moist soil. It should sprout roots, and voila! You have an ultra mini plant. 

Succulents don’t typically suffer from pests, but they can sometimes get bugs. Gnats are most likely. Inspect those juicy little leaves regularly. Check out our Pest control section in Plant 101 for how to identify and deal with pests on your plant! 

A couple of possibilities. Maybe too much direct summer sun. Or possibly overwatering or root damage. First, moving your plant to a still-bright but less sun-blasted spot. Reduce the watering and follow our watering instructions above. If your succulent buddy still doesn’t bounce back, check for root damage.  

Almost certainly too much water. This problem is no big deal if you catch it early. First, stop watering! Let’s dry out that soil. Check your pot’s drainage. Does it have a hole that allows excess water to escape? Help things dry by poking holes in the soil. This will get oxygen to the roots. You can also put the pot (with drainage holes) in a tray that’s lined with a layer of dry soil. It acts like a sponge to draw out extra moisture. Now, let’s check for root rot. Dig down and cut out any that look affected. If things are really bad, consider repotting entirely with new soil. Moving forward, water only when the soil is totally dry and make sure you water the soil, not the leaves. Water can collect between the leaves at its base, and start to rot. A thin layer of sand on top of the soil can reduce pooling water up top. 

For more information check out our Plant 101 section. 

Not enough light and/or overwatering. If the whole plant has yellowed or gone pale, it definitely needs more light. Move your friend to a brighter spot and resist the urge to overwater. Let the top two inches of soil get dry before watering again. 

Your plant needs a drink. Underwatering a succulent is hard to do, but it does happen. Give small amounts of water for three days in a row. Make sure you do this at soil level, not poured on the leaves. This is the ONE TIME it’s okay to do a little misting. A little does a lot. Resist the urge to water all at once! Your friend will plump up in a few days. 

Not enough light. It takes a lot of bright (mostly indirect) light to get succulents growing. If you’re not noticing any growth, or the new growth looks pale, it’s time to move to brighter spot. You may need slightly more frequent watering after the move. Note, succulents grow in slow motion at the best of times, so a little patience goes a long way.

It’s a desert plant, so use a light, well-draining potting soil like Miracle-Gro Cactus, Palm and Succulent Potting Mix. Or, use regular potting soil and add some potting sand or perlite. A layer of sand on the top will help prevent rot. Ensure the pot has good drainage. Snakes should never sit in water. Empty drainage trays if you see water collecting. 

Every 2 to 3 years in the Spring, especially in the earlier years. Increase the pot size by 2 inches each repotting. In later years you can replace the top couple inches of soil instead of completely repotting. Snake growing too fast? Slow the growth by trimming the roots.  

Grab a sharp knife or scissors, find one of the healthiest leaves, and cut it off at the base of the plant.  Then cut the leaf into multiple horizontal strips (about 3 inches each). Let the ends dry for two days then put them in water to stimulate root growth. This step could take 2 to 3 weeks. When you’ve got roots, you’re ready to pot. 

Mealybugs are most common. When you do your regular dusting, inspect the leaves. Check out our Pest control section in Plant 101 for how to identify and deal with pests on your plant! 

Multiple possibilities. All easily fixed. Firstly, this may not be a problem at all. Overly mature leaves naturally fall away to make room new growth. But if many leaves are falling over before their time, it’s probably over or under watering. If the soil is bone dry, add a moderate amount of water for a few days in a row. Then be more diligent with your watering routine. If the soil is soaked, check your drainage and let the soil fully dry before starting a better routine. Light issues: Snake plants do well in low light but if they’re getting no light leaves may start to keel over. Move into some nice, bright, indirect light. Other causes? Maybe your Snake plant has outgrown its pot. This can cause it to become root-bound. It’s time to repot in something at least 2 inches wider. 

Probably overwatering. Are the leaves also a bit mushy? These are signs of root rot. Not to worry, when caught early this is easily fixable. Reduce watering and ensure the soil dries out before watering. Check your pot’s drainage. Does it have a hole that allows excess water to escape? Help things dry by poking holes in the soil. This will get oxygen to the roots. You can also put the pot (with drainage holes) in a tray that’s lined with a layer of dry soil. It acts like a sponge to draw out extra moisture. Now, let’s check for root rot. Dig down and cut out any that look affected. If things are really bad, consider repotting entirely with new soil. For more information check out our Plant 101 section. 

Under-watering. Check the soil. It’s probably bone dry. Instead of dousing it all at once. Give your Snake plant a medium amount of water three days in a row. Nice and easy. Make sure it’s never sitting in pools of water. Those droopy leaves should rebound by day three. 

Use a rich, well-draining, indoor potting soil, like Miracle-Gro® Indoor Potting Mix. Ensure your pot has good drainage. Don’t let it sit in water and if you notice water pooling in the drainage tray, empty it. 

Repot every 1 to 2 years in the Spring, especially with younger plants. Increase pot by 2 inches every time. When your Rubber plant is older and becomes a big fella, repotting gets hard! So you can just replace the top few inches of soil. 

Be careful what you start, because these plants get big! Pick a stem showing thick, healthy leaves and cut halfway up the stem. Milky sap will come out, and it’s an irritant you want to avoid. Remove the bottom leaves to give yourself a nice stretch of stem. It’s not the easiest propagator, so you’ll need rooting hormone to encourage roots. Dip your stem in the hormone and pot it moist soil, like Miracle-Gro® Indoor Potting Mix. 

Look for mealybugs, scale insects, and spider mites. During your regular leaf cleaning, inspect the underside of each leaf. Check out our Pest control section in Plant 101 for how to identify and deal with pests on your plant! 

Too much direct sunlight. Rubber plants don’t like direct sun. It’s too hot on those big, broad leave, and they’ll lose moisture, causing these patchy pale spots. Shade the window or move your plant away from this direct sun. Sadly, the spots don’t heal, so consider removing the most damaged ones. 

Rubber plants get stressed out easily. Any sudden change is likely to trigger leaf drop. Blasts of air conditioning or furnace heat. Cold drafts under a door. Being taken home from the nursery is also a big change in your plant’s life! Expect droppage. If you have not moved it recently and you can’t source any sudden temp changes then it could be overly dry air, or under watering and feeding. Review your care routine and your Rubber plant should… bounce back. 

Possible sunburn, or worse, leaf spot. If your Rubber plant is sitting in direct sunlight, it’s probably sunburn. Especially if it’s getting hot Summer sun. Move to still-bright indirect spot. If it’s not sunburn, it could be leaf spot, a fungal disease. Overwatering, especially in the winter, is usually the cause. First, avoid spreading to other plants by separating them physically. Remove all spotty leaves and check for plant debris in the pot. If you’re misting, stop. You want the leaves to get dry. Treat with fungicide. 

Probably root rot from overwatering. Do you also notice mushy stems and/or slower growth? These are all signs of root rot. Not to worry, when caught early this is easily fixable. Reduce watering and ensure the soil dries out before watering. Check your pot’s drainage. Does it have a hole that allows excess water to escape? Help things dry by poking holes in the soil. This will get oxygen to the roots. You can also put the pot (with drainage holes) in a tray that’s lined with a layer of dry soil. It acts like a sponge to draw out extra moisture. Now, let’s check for root rot. Dig down and cut out any that look affected. If things are really bad, consider repotting entirely with new soil. For more information check out our Plant 101 section.

This plant likes a light, well-draining soil like Miracle-Gro Cactus, Palm and Succulent Potting Mix. Or add some potting sand or perlite to regular potting soil. Your pot must have good drainage and don’t let Pilea sit in water. If you see water collecting in the drainage tray, dump it. 

Repot every 1 to 2 years in the Spring, especially with younger plants. Increase pot by 2 inches every time. If dealing with a more mature, fully grown plant you can just replace the top few inches of soil. 

So easy, because Pilea is self-propagating. It creates tiny offshoots also known as ‘pups’. You can leave them on the plant, or create a new one. Wait until your Pilea pup is at least a few inches tall. Gently dig under the pup and cut (or gently pull) the plant free, ensuring you get roots. Put the pup in some water to grow stronger roots, or plant directly in soil. You have a new mini Pilea that makes a perfect gift! 

Pileas are bug resistant, but pests are still possible. Inspect under the leaves when doing your regular dusting & cleaning. Check out our Pest control section in Plant 101 for how to identify and deal with pests on your plant! 

Light and water are incorrect. If the leaves are curled inwards, your Pilea is probably dehydrated. It’s not getting enough water, or it’s getting too much sun. On the flipside, If the leaves are curled outwards it’s probably too much water or not enough light. Check your soil before watering and ensure the top two inches of soil are dry before watering. Time between watering varies by plant and how much light they’re getting.  

Where are they yellowing? If only the bottom leaves are yellowing and dropping, there’s no problem. That’s normal Pilea behaviour. But If the whole plant is yellowing, you’re probably overwatering. When doing your watering routine, make sure the top 1 to 2 inches of soil are dry before watering. 

Rotate your plant! Pilea’s love to grow towards the sun. This can cause them to become one side heavy or grow unevenly. You should remember to turn your plant every time you water to allow the plant to grow evenly.  

Overwatering, too little time between watering. Mold (and even mushrooms) growing on your soil is not a direct threat. But it IS a sign of overwatering. Root rot can follow if not addressed. Water less frequently and make sure you let the top two inches of soil fully dry before watering. Ensure you have proper drainage. If things look really moldy, you can remove the top inch or so of soil. 

Powdery mildew. Like mold, this isn’t dangerous, but it makes your precious Pilea less pretty! So it’s got to go. Bad air circulation is usually the cause. Remove affected leaves and move your plant somewhere with better air circulation.

Use a rich, well-draining, indoor potting soil, like Miracle-Gro® Indoor Potting Mix. Ensure your pot has good drainage. If you notice water pooling in the drainage tray, empty it.  

Every 2-3 years in the Spring, especially in the earlier years. Increase the pot size by 2 inches each repotting. When your Fig is all grown up, you can get away with just replacing the top few inches of soil. 

Find a stem with 3-4 leaves and cut just below the lowest leaf. Now remove the lower leaves to make room for root growth. Place your stem in a jar of water. Figs can be stubborn to root, so add some rooting hormone to the water.  

Fiddle Figs are prone to mealybugs, scale insects, and spider mites. Make a routine of dusting and checking under the leaves. Our pest control section in Plant 101 will help you identify and deal with pesky plant pests! 

Your friend is stressed out. Figs don’t like sudden changes to their surroundings. Often it’s blasts of hot or cold air a nearby vent. Moving from the nursery to your home is a shock for this gentle giant. If there haven’t been any sudden changes, it could be overly dry air. It could also be too much or too little water. Or too much or too little food. This plant is not the easiest! Review your placement and care routine, and keep doing your best. The leaves should grow back. 

Possibly a sunburn, or maybe leaf spot. If your Fiddle Fig gets direct sunlight it’s probably sunburn. Lots of indirect light is good but direct sun is bad. If that’s not it, it could be a fungal disease called leaf spot. Overwatering or an overly damp environment are the cause. Stop the spread to other plats, make sure leaves aren’t near each other. Remove infected leaves, including any that have fallen into the pot. If you’re misting, stop. Treat with fungicide as directed. 

Low humidity, not enough water or irregular watering.  Give more attention to watering. Routines matter for this plant. Ensure it’s regular and thorough and that the entire root ball is getting wet. Check the room temp. If it’s over 75 F/24 C and the air feels dry, mist the leaves regularly and consider a humidifier. Or put the pot on a pebble filled tray of water. Make sure the pot doesn’t touch the water. 

Make sure you are watering the plant thoroughly and at regular intervals, getting the whole root ball wet.  

Probably root rot from overwatering. Do you also notice mushy stems and/or slower growth? These are all signs of root rot. Not to worry, when caught early this is easily fixable. Reduce watering and ensure the soil dries out before watering. Check your pot’s drainage. Does it have a hole that allows excess water to escape? Help things dry by poking holes in the soil. This will get oxygen to the roots. You can also put the pot (with drainage holes) in a tray that’s lined with a layer of dry soil. It acts like a sponge to draw out extra moisture. Now, let’s check for root rot. Dig down and cut out any that look affected. If things are really bad, consider repotting entirely with new soil. For more information check out our Plant 101 section.